In the spring, the troubles of the gardeners begin - you need to tidy up the garden, take care of the orchard, and pay no less attention to flowers, especially ornamental plants. Caring for roses should start in early spring. Remove the winter shelter, make the correct pruning, protect as much as possible from diseases and harmful insects - all of this is included in the care of the rose, which is considered to be a capricious flower. For careful care in the spring, flowers will surely thank the gardener with lush flowering and healthy foliage. Many gardeners do not risk planting roses in the garden, they are frightened by stories about the difficulty of growing them. After all, flowers not only need to be carefully grown, but also to be carefully looked after. In fact, all fears about hibernation and care are greatly exaggerated. Caring for roses is very simple, the most important thing is to know how to do it.
Care for outdoor garden roses
Before you start caring, you must first plant the bushes. Of course, many gardeners have already done this, but some seek to update the rose garden every year. That is why you need to know some of the nuances, for example, when growing container roses, planting takes place from May to August.
Root roses are grown in the garden immediately, planting at the same time produce in the fall. This will allow the plants to take root before the first frost, but you should accurately calculate the time:
if you plant too early, the flower will sprout and then die,
if it is too late, the roots will be frozen - again, the bush will die.
To avoid this, it is recommended to plant roses in early spring when the ground warms up to 8 ° C.
Proper planting roses
Direct landing occurs according to the following rules:
- Soil preparation. The necessary area is dug up, the roots of weeds are removed, the soil is mixed with fertilizers.
- Planting of bushes is made at a distance of 50 cm, while the dug holes should be spacious enough for free placement of the root system. When landing, packing is necessarily removed, even one that is supposed to decompose in the ground - the process of decomposition can adversely affect the roots.
- Pruning is done according to the unwritten rule: the weak ones are pruned altogether, the strong ones leave 5-8 buds, depending on the type of flower.
- After planting, flowers are plentifully spilled with water so that the soil settles down to the roots.
- Loosening - the soil must be gathered around the bush, and then mulched.
After the planting of the rose in the ground is completed, care should be given.
Particular attention is paid to the wrapping of perennial plants for the winter period, which is removed only in the spring.
Landscape roses: planting and care
Most often, this type of roses, characterized by abundant flowering, are domesticated dog roses. The main advantage of these plants is their high winter hardiness and early flowering, 2-3 weeks before the start of flowering of other species. Being low plants, park roses look very attractive due to the dense foliage and look gorgeous in both single and group plantings.
Planting rose bushes, whose average life expectancy is 20-30 years, is recommended in sunny areas, well ventilated from all sides, and nutrient loose soil will be the key to successful growth. It is better if it is loam with a high percentage of humus. Planting of park roses is made in the first half of spring or early autumn. During the first three years, a strong root system and main stems are formed.It is at this time that the plant should provide maximum care, which is timely watering, infrequent, but abundant. In this case, the root system in search of moisture grows in depth, which has a positive effect on the bush's winter hardiness. Consumption per 1 bush - 1.0-1.5 buckets of water. With frequent watering, the formation of surface roots will occur, which are very easily damaged when loosening and do not tolerate frosts.
An important factor in the care of landscape roses is the regular loosening of the soil near the bushes and the introduction of top dressing. In spring, the soil should be fertilized with rotted manure; in the summer, use mineral preparations.
Undoubtedly, roses need a dense shelter to bear the winter season. Spring care should start just with gradually airing the flowers. Shelters are usually very difficult to construct, to achieve an ideal temperature even under a layer of snow.
Gradually we begin to clean the shelter in early April - as soon as the main snow mass comes down. As soon as the sun begins to warm, then you need to start airing the bushes of the plant, raising the northern edge of the shelter for the day.
It is necessary to carefully monitor the weather conditions, the growth of rose buds. The period of initial care is determined by the weather and temperature in April in each year individually. It is best to keep roses from debate and overheating under layers of shelter due to sun activity, which rises by the end of April.
After a week or a little more, in this matter it is recommended to focus on the temperature, when the air warms to at least -5, you can remove the first layer of cover - non-woven material. After 3 days, when the thermometer shows 0, it is possible to remove a lapnik or other warm shelter material, and only after that, when the temperature rises to +3 - +5, you need to sweep away the dry foliage. It would be better to locate it nearby, neatly distributed in piles.
For some time you need to get used to the rose bushes, and then remove the hill. The most important thing on the bush is the vaccination site, the protective layer from it needs to be removed at the last moment, when the air temperature already rises above +7.
Do not rush to cleaning and subsequent care: pruning and dressing can be started only a week after removing all layers of shelters. A good guide will be the buds of the plant - if they swell, then you should hurry with the care procedures. It is important that the process of lifting the cover takes place in several stages, so the roses will adapt gradually.
Such plants are varieties of wild rose and some varieties of garden roses and are characterized by long branching shoots. Due to this quality, they are successfully used in vertical gardening of buildings, walls and arbors. Look great in garden flower arrangements, are the main element of the decor when designing garden structures, arches, columns, pyramids.
Rose family garden grows well in sunny areas, protected from direct sunlight in the afternoon. The soil for planting should be permeable, without close groundwater deposition. In a temperate climate, the plant is best planted in late September - early October or in spring, in April - May. Before planting, the shoots should be shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots to 30 cm.
Planted plants need to be watered, spud well, cover with a film to create greenhouse conditions and air regularly. As soon as the threat of spring frost has passed, the film can be removed, and the area can be mulched.
The best way to make rose care easier is mulching. This procedure allows you to reduce the time for weeding and loosening the soil, it is produced immediately after the first fertilization of the bushes.
- does not allow moisture to evaporate,
- cools the soil in the heat, saving the roots from burns,
- does not allow the ground to become dense,
- keeps fertilizer in the ground
- protects against pests and diseases
- stops the growth of weeds.
Often, mulch is a small tree bark, mature compost, trash, or dry grass. The soil around the bush is cleared of weeds and grass, loosened and covered with a layer of mulch of 5-7 cm.
Garden rose: planting and care in the open field
The best period for planting garden roses is autumn (beginning of September - mid-October). If winters are too cold in the region where roses are grown, they can be planted in spring (April - May), waiting for the soil to warm up.
Garden roses, cultivation at home which requires the use of certain knowledge, requires the proper selection of a place for planting. In this case, the roses planted on it will bloom for a long time, delivering aesthetic pleasure to the owners of the garden and their guests. Garden culture loves an abundance of light, the most optimal will be its placement in the territory, located away from trees and large bushes and in the afternoon it turns out to be in partial shade. An important factor in the survival rate and active flower growth is the absence of drafts and the close occurrence of groundwater.
Preparation for landing activities should be carried out in advance, for two months. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, it is necessary to form a raised flower bed for the rose garden, otherwise the roots will begin to rot, and the plant will lose its decorative effect and will have an unhealthy appearance. The plot is required to dig, for every square. meter to make a bucket of garden compost, 30-50 grams of superphosphate and 2 cups of wood ash. Too clay soil can be diluted with sand.
Top dressing bushes
Growing roses in open ground depends largely on the first feeding, which must be carried out immediately after spring pruning. It is very important that the shrub is already developed: the buds are swollen, but not yet dismissed.
Flowers react positively to any kind of fertilizer: mixtures, fertilizer complex, nitrogen fertilizer. The recommended dosage is indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. A common mistake of gardeners is to feed a rose with organic matter. Compost can only be used once every 3 years, supplementing mineral supplementation, but not replacing it.
The classic scheme is to mix the mineral fertilizer with the soil around the rose bush. Before feeding, the soil should be carefully shed a few hours before dropping in fertilizer, after which the bush is watered again to avoid plant burns. But recently, watering is gaining popularity - the fertilizer is dissolved in warm water, then the soil is treated around the roses.
The newly planted rose bushes are watered every two days, gradually, as the bush grows, reducing the watering to weekly. Water serves as a natural conductor of minerals. In the spring it is necessary to water roses abundantly, but carefully. Excess moisture can lead to the development of various types of diseases.
In summer, the roses are watered twice a month, but if the summers are dry or hot, they should be watered more often. Watering should be abundant, it is necessary to water carefully so as not to blur the roots.
Since August, in some regions since September, watering is reduced. After all, the rose begins to prepare for winter, and abundant watering will contribute to the growth of the vegetative mass.
Before spuding roses with earth, they are watered abundantly before winter shelter. After hilling watering of roses is not made. Roses easier to winter in dry ground.
How to plant a rose
Garden rose, planting and caring for which is a year-round phenomenon, will please with abundant blooms with proper preparatory activities. Saplings of roses, which previously should be cut the roots and stems, it is recommended to immerse in water for several hours. At this time, you can do the preparation of the planting pit: the optimal diameter is 40-50 cm, and the depth should be slightly larger than the volume of the root system of the seedling, together with the earth clod.From the excavated earth and compost in the proportion of 3: 1, a soil mixture should be prepared, to which you can add a handful of wood ash. It is required to pour a bucket of water with a diluted heteroauxin tablet (organic growth stimulant) into the pit, drop a rose seedling into it and, holding it by the stem, sprinkle it with the prepared soil. A young plant should be tucked to a height of 15 cm, and around it to form a circular ditch, which delays the outflow of water. Also, the planted flower must be arranged in shading.
In the first year after planting, a bush is formed, therefore the main factors of care at this stage are timely pinching of the ends of the shoots, aimed at stimulating tillering. Also, in order to avoid the weakening of the young plant in early summer, the buds that have begun to form should be removed. In the second half of the summer season, the buds should be allowed to mature, and only then remove.
Pruning roses by season
Novice gardeners when planting flowers is known - the pruning of roses is carried out at any time of the year, except for winter.
At the same time, the goals of seasonal pruning are different:
- in the spring it is produced for the renewal of bushes, an incentive for growth and abundant summer flowering,
- in the autumn - it's pruning roses for the winter and preparing them for the winter: wrapping, in the summer it is to remove fallen buds.
Watering garden roses
Also important factors in plant care are regular watering, application of dressings, loosening and weeding the soil. Moisture is recommended not very often (when the soil dries out on the site), but it is abundant. The exception is newly planted bushes: they should be watered every other day. The rate of water for each adult plant is 10 liters, depending on the season, this indicator may vary. So, in a hot and dry summer, you need to water the roses more and more often. Moisture should be moderately, not intensively, so as not to wash the soil from the roots, you can not use too cold water. The best time for irrigation are morning and evening hours, and the most recommended way to supply moisture to the plants is drip. At the end of summer, at the end of flowering, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, the rate of watering should be reduced. Otherwise, there is a high risk of developing fungal infections for a plant like a garden rose. Cultivation (photo above) in the garden of such a culture is a real celebration, allowing you to enjoy the beautiful natural creation every day.
Pruning roses in spring
Spring pruning roses - a very important stage in the care. Wrong movement can damage the whole rosebush and it will die.
- Dry leaves, damaged twigs and dead shoots are removed - they turn brown over the winter,
- weak and diseased branches need to be cut to ensure healthy lighting and air, moreover, it will help avoid the infection of the whole bush with fungus,
- after an inspection is carried out, during which three shoots with swollen buds are selected,
- selected branches should be cut obliquely to the kidneys,
- then remove the shoots, facing growth inside the rose bush,
- a beautiful crown is formed with a small center,
- the treatment is carried out with copper sulphate (100 grams per bucket of warm water), the bush is carefully sprayed.
Roses must be covered with foil even after pruning, if further cooling is possible. It is not uncommon for the climate, when the May holidays, after a series of warm days, frosts come or even snow falls.
When pruning should consider many factors that may further affect the bush:
- climate - less climates in a cool climate,
- landing site on the sunny side
- plant type and growth.
Pruning roses in autumn
Pruning roses in the fall is made in mid-October. This is a very important point: in no case should you start pruning before the first frosts begin.Pruning gives a kind of start to the growth of buds, so if you cut the roses before possible warming, which is not uncommon, the bush will grow. Before winter, you need to be careful and immediately handle the place of pruning with an antifungal drug. For example, you can use at least a simple charcoal charcoal.
Cropping various types of roses
Growing roses often turns into a favorite hobby, so many gardeners bring variety and plant several species of this royal flower at once. For each type of rose is its own method of pruning, in which the size of the stem is especially taken into account.
- Tea hybrids and flower beds
First, damaged and dead stems are detected, which are removed by cutting to the first bud; optimally, only 3-8 stems remain. After that, they are cut at the level of 6 buds from the soil. As a result of a properly performed procedure, the development of young shoots will be uniform.
Dried and weak stems are removed in April, and the remaining ones are pruned, leaving 5 strong shoots. They should have up to 8 healthy swollen kidneys. Branches are shortened by 1/2, lateral - by 2/3, 3-5 kidneys remain. In other words, if the height is 30 cm, then cut 10 cm, if 120 cm - cut 40 cm. It is important that the weeping type of stem roses need only be thinned.
Old bushes are cut, young stems remain.
Climbing roses pruned up to 4 buds on lateral shoots, while the main branches are not touched.
When growing roses, care and pruning should be done with special attention. When pruning, you must use gloves, so less likely to damage the bush. When pruning you need to be especially careful, use only sharp scissors or pruner, so that the cut is even. A cut with torn edges is a big step towards infecting the entire bush.
Pest and disease control methods
Roses can get sick or be attacked by harmful insects that cause the plant to die. In order to avoid such troubles, it is recommended to carry out continuous prophylaxis and carefully monitor the growth of the plant, paying attention in case of pests. Treatment of roses from diseases and pests should be done in a timely manner, because even one diseased plant can infect healthy bushes, and lead to the death of the entire planting.
A good preventive measure will be spraying the flower immediately after the start of growth, which later needs to be done 1 time in 2 weeks. Small pests are dangerous during the period of bud swelling, when the plant is most vulnerable.
Protection of roses from pests, of course, must be timely, and you need to know - from whom to protect.
Such small pests appear on roses as:
- Rosana aphid - hunts in colonies, sucks the sap from the stem of the plant, it warps and dries, and in winter it can die, you can only fight it by constantly processing the bushes with special means,
- Spider mite - it entangles the plant with gossamer, also sucks the juice, disrupting the natural metabolism in the rose, as a result, the leaves fall off, also the method of control is treatment with medicines,
- Leafworms - caterpillars devour the leaves in the spring, insects can be collected by hand, or the bush can be treated with special solutions,
- Beetles-beetles - eat the stems and leaves, the medicine is laid out around the bushes,
- Olenka and Bronzovka - eat flowering buds, you need to collect by hand in the early morning when insects are immovable.
Flowers fall ill under adverse growth conditions: lack of moisture or, conversely, its excess, little power and light. Infection can be both massive and single - it is important to immediately remove the diseased plant so that the disease does not spread to healthy bushes.
Diseases of roses and their treatment are very diverse:
- Powdery mildew - appears in the middle of summer as white bloom on the leaves because of an overabundance of moisture in the soil, the affected stems and leaves are cut, and the soil is dug up, and the bushes are treated with medicine, for example, copper sulphate.
- Rust - orange pillows appear on plants, treated with soapy water.
- Chlorosis - in plants there is a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow and turn pale, and then fall off, it is recommended to process copper sulphate, dissolved in chilled water.
Rose bushes are a beautiful decoration for any garden. Proper care, pruning and fertilizing plants will allow them to grow for a long time, delighting the gardener with its diversity. And knowing about the methods of control and possible diseases that can harm roses, you can fully protect the planting, protecting it from pests.
Caring for roses in the open field: planting watering pruning
In the spring, the troubles of the gardeners begin - you need to tidy up the garden, take care of the orchard, and pay no less attention to flowers, especially ornamental plants. Caring for roses should start in early spring.
Remove the winter shelter, make the correct pruning, protect as much as possible from diseases and harmful insects - all of this is included in the care of the rose, which is considered to be a capricious flower.
For careful care in the spring, flowers will surely thank the gardener with lush flowering and healthy foliage. Many gardeners do not risk planting roses in the garden, they are frightened by stories about the difficulty of growing them.
After all, flowers not only need to be carefully grown, but also to be carefully looked after. In fact, all fears about hibernation and care are greatly exaggerated. Caring for roses is very simple, the most important thing is to know how to do it.
Choosing a place
The choice of place for seedlings must be approached with caution and literacy.
How and where to plant roses
- It is important to remember that these plants do not like wet and lowland terrain,
- Also, the selected corner should not be blown by the winds or be too open to direct sunlight.
- It is not recommended to plant them in the place where any representatives of the Rosaceae grew before (quince, cherry, apricot and others),
- Also, you can not plant roses close to other bushes and trees (they will create a shadow and will select food and moisture).
When is it better to plant a rose?
Many experienced gardeners advise planting roses after summer. But it turns out that things are not so simple, and there is more than one correct opinion on this score.
- In central Russia with a rather cool climate, spring is the right time. But in areas of temperate climate, spring planting is an acceptable option. The main thing is that further care should be correct and timely.
- It is not recommended to choose this time, where wet, heavy land. After all, when planting the soil compacted even more, and it will be difficult to loosen.
- Also, the timing depends on the type of plant. For example, a stem rose spring climate is most suitable (it is difficult to prepare for winter).
- The optimal time for planting other types of roses depends on the species: in the fall - before the onset of severe frosts (October-November), in the spring - as soon as the earth begins to thaw and becomes soft (March-April).
Plants planted in the autumn, before the onset of frost, have time to release thin roots. Because of this, in the spring they will certainly overtake in the development of their spring sisters. The disadvantage of such a landing is that not all of them can survive the cold.
Preparing the land for planting begins in a few months from digging up the sod in the selected area. But you can facilitate this procedure and begin training in another way.
- Cover the earth with newspapers in 9-12 layers, press down with stones. After two months, the stones and all that remains of the newspapers can be removed. The soil will become soft, and all the weeds will die.
- Land plowed and allowed to stand a couple of days.
- This is followed by fertilization.They are organic (manure, peat, humus, compost - 10 kg per 1 square meter of land) and mineral (20 g of potassium chloride plus 30 g of ammonium nitrate plus 70 g of superphosphate - at 1m.kv.).
- Then the soil is left to sag. During this time, it will be completely saturated with useful substances, the excess moisture will leave.
- If you are lucky, and you have fertile soil, then on this preparation of the land, consider finished. You can begin to form the wells for landing.
- The landing hole is made in advance. It should be roomy (20-30 cm deep, 50 cm in diameter) so that the roots can develop normally. In clay soils, the diameter of the pit is made larger - up to 60 cm.
If the soil in your rose garden is clay, you will have to tinker a little more and drain. To do this, use expanded clay, coarse sand or gravel. Put it in the holes dug under the bushes. Top sprinkled with soil.
Preparation of seedlings of roses before planting in the soil
An important and indispensable part before planting is the technology of preparing seedlings:
- first, they are disinfected by soaking for half an hour in a suitable solution (Fundazol or Copper sulfate - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water),
- plants are carefully examined. Broken, weak shoots are removed, leaving up to three strong and healthy shoots,
- they remove all the leaves,
- dry roots are placed on the day in cold water,
- frozen (on the cut circles will be black) - instilled in the open ground,
- then the roses are cut to 30-35cm. Previously trimmed roots update,
- Before planting, the plant is stored in a cool, dark room, moistening the roots once every 2 weeks.
Planting roses in the garden
Pruning roses before planting
It is very important to plant a seedling in the soil correctly. A rose is planted at a temperature of from 0 to +7 degrees Celsius.
- At the bottom of the hole pour superphosphate or bone meal (250g in each hole), a mixture of compost, manure, humus and soil.
- Sprinkle it with earth to prevent the fertilizer from touching the roots.
- We put a seedling, not deeply deeper (5-10 cm below the ground level). The roots should be laid out and look down.
- Slowly we fall asleep, crushing the earth with our hands.
- Carefully and thoroughly tamped on top.
- Pour warm water (no less than a bucket on a bush) so that there is no air around the roots.
- We pour the soil, making a mound, and leave it for two weeks.
- During this time, the seedling will take root and excess land can be removed.
How and when to spray roses
Garden of roses requires careful maintenance. He needs constant watering, fertilizing and mulching. You can learn about these procedures and how to do it correctly in the article Care of roses in the spring.
It is also advisable to conduct a daily inspection for damage by pests or diseases. The appearance and duration of their life depends on how much attention you pay them.
Let us dwell on feedings, because they are very important for the health of your plant.
Foliar fertilizing is done in spring and summer - before and after flowering every ten days, sprinkling the leaves from both sides until full moisture with special preparations. This method of fertilizer helps the flowers to assimilate the necessary micronutrients easily and quickly. But it is necessary to approach this occupation with caution. Improper spraying can lead to irreversible effects.
You can not feed the roses through the leaves:
- in the heat (you can burn the sheets). In this weather, do it better early in the morning or late in the evening,
- during flowering,
- when the roses are wet
- in the daytime in the summer when bees and other insects fly,
- in windy weather.
Remember: before processing, make sure that the leaves are dry and healthy, and the solution is fresh.
The most popular options for dressing through spraying with such preparations:
- Magnesium sulfate (10g per 10 liters of water),
- Ash (2nd.for 1 l - mix with boil for about 15 minutes, insist and filter, dilute in 10 liters of water, adding one tablet of micronutrients Chelate copper or other),
- Calcium nitrate (1 tbsp. Per 10 liters of liquid),
- Urea (30g per 10 liters of water). Used as a fertilizer and means of prevention against fungal diseases and sucking pests,
- Sodium humate (10g per 3 l of hot water, infused for 10 hours. One fourth liter of the present solution is diluted in five liters of water). Improves flowering roses, helps the development and strengthening of the roots,
- Double superphosphate (50g pour one liter of hot water, insist 4 hours, dilute to 10 liters),
- Agricola Rose (1 tbsp. L diluted in 10 liters of water),
- Bud (package for 10 liters of water).
Spraying is also done in the event of infection with pests and diseases (we discussed them in detail in the topic about caring for roses in the spring). Medicinal substances, falling into the trunk, will be able to perfectly protect adults and young shoots.
Garden of roses - the dream of any gardener. Creating a flower kingdom is not such a big and complicated problem as it seems at first glance. The main thing is that you have the desire and desire to do it. And add a little imagination, attach maximum love and care. And you will definitely succeed!
Garden roses - growing and care
Many admirers of a rose, but few people decide to plant it in their garden, assuming that special care is needed for it. But the rose is not so whimsical, as is commonly believed. It is only necessary to follow the rules of its breeding.
Today, rose saplings are sold in abundance. However, it is not a fact that the plant will take root and be the promised color and size, as we would like. Therefore, I would like to know how to avoid mistakes and choose the right seedlings of roses, based on the fact that not all roses winter well in the Moscow region and northern regions.
Roses successfully grow in one place up to 10 years. For their successful cultivation is very important to choose the right place for planting. Best suited sunny places, protected from the winds, with fertile, but not overmoistened soil with acidity close to neutral. Can be planted in spring or autumn.
Planted in a hole up to 1 m deep, filling it with compost or other rotted organic fertilizer. When planting seedlings need to ensure that the place of vaccination was 5 cm underground. Roses do not like alkaline soil and die at high levels of groundwater. Before planting, they are cut at a height of 15-20 cm.
Then the plants are watered and spud.
After planting, special attention should be paid to agrotechnical care, since many diseases are aggravated by improper farming techniques (excessive fertilizer, dryness or overmoistening, sharp temperature fluctuations). Agrotechnical techniques and the timing of their implementation depend on natural conditions.
And the number of irrigations is the length of the growing season, the amount of precipitation, the proximity of groundwater, temperature conditions, soil structure (as far as it is able to retain and retain moisture). Roses are watered since spring, about once a week. In the fall, watering is stopped.
Watering with sprinkling is not recommended, as it increases the susceptibility to disease.
Throughout the growing season, roses should be carefully cared for, spring pruning, shrub formation, loosening the soil around the shrubs, watering, fertilizing, weeding, mulching, protection from pests, preparing for winter and shelter ... When pruning, you can select suitable shoots for cutting.
Pruning roses and forming bushes
Every year with the onset of spring, roses are pruned. The reasons why roses are pruned:
1. Adjusting the shape of the bushes after the previous growing season. Last summer, rose branches grew in an undesirable direction. To do this, pruning of those branches that have broken the shape of the bushes is done. 2
Pruning of bushes is done in such a way that according to the gardener's plan: - bushes will produce large, single flowers on long pedicels, - bushes will produce many flowers on many shoots. In this case, the flowers will be smaller, but in large quantities. 3. Rejuvenate the bushes, cutting off old branches and forcing the bushes to produce new young shoots.
After the probability of frosts disappears, and the buds have not yet dismissed, the best time to do pruning roses. Look carefully at the roses first. All branches that have grown inside the bushes must be removed. This will destroy the rose bushes and allow better ventilation.
Then you need to remove to live wood branches that were damaged or died out during the winter. On very tall bushes produce pruning of all frail shoots. If the bush is weak, then such shoots are left too, but they shorten a branch by at least one bud. This will stimulate growth and strengthen the plant itself.
Pruning roses should be such that the existing roots could feed all the branches of the aboveground part of the bushes. This is an important pruning condition. In this case, the roses will normally grow shoots and bloom well.
How to cut roses for growing large flowers
In addition to the sanitary pruning of roses with large flowers, they are cut to grow large flowers for cutting. In this case, on each branch that you have left, it is necessary to cut off the shoot so that 3-4 buds are left on it. This contributes to the development of powerful shoots from a small number of abandoned buds. On such long shoots large flowers are formed.
Pruning roses for growing flowers on klumba
If you want the roses to bloom abundantly in the flower bed, the pruning should be done so that the leaves left after the preliminary pruning leave 3-6 buds to grow. As a result of such pruning, many flowers will appear, smaller and on smaller pedicels.
Pruning roses FLORIBUNDA OR HYBRIDES OF TEA ROSES for growing in flowerbed
If you want to create a lush bush of these species, then you need to carry out formative pruning. Depending on how you represent this bush in the future, in this dependency, and prune. First, make a sanitary pruning, and then proceed to the formation of a bush. It is difficult to say how many kidneys to leave. This can be either 3 or 6. It all depends on the bush itself that you decided to form. If the flowering and growth of such bushes suddenly decrease, then, as a result, you will have to make a stronger pruning of roses.
Pruning MINIATURE ROSES
In general, miniature rose bushes are pruned as well as tea hybrid rose bushes. This is sanitary and formative trimming. Leave 2-3 buds on the branches. The length of the branch is not more than 4 ″ (10 cm). If you have not cut the plant, it will significantly later flow into the bloom. In the summer, faded flowers, dry twigs, withered leaves are removed. This is done to ensure that they do not appear pests or diseases, as well as to improve the decorativeness of the bush.
Spring pruning climbing roses made only at the ends of branches. If the plant is older than 4 years, then the old shoots are cut completely to the base of the soil after flowering, the young shoots are not touched and are not cut for a year, because the roses will bloom at their ends next year.
ROSE CROP TIPS
1. Early timely pruning stimulates the flowering of rose bushes. Too early pruning before the end of the arrival of frosts inhibits flowering of roses. 2. Late pruning of roses slows the beginning of the growing season. 3. After pruning the rose bushes, feed them. 4. In order for dormant buds to start growing on climbing roses, it is necessary to tie the young branch in a horizontal or inclined position. 5. All sections more than 1 cm must be covered with garden pitch or Novikov liquid. 6After pruning a plant, it is necessary to sprinkle it with a 1% solution of copper sulphate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or with a 1-3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Such groups of roses as Spinosissima, Rugosa, Gallica and their hybrids, Moschata almost do not need pruning. Flowers are formed on the side branches of the shoots of two-year and older branches. Pruning roses produced in case of damage to the branches or natural dying. It is best to cut with a knife in order not to crush the branch. The knife for pruning roses should be sharp. Disinfect it before pruning.
Pruning is done at a height of 5-8 mm above the bud, so that the future escape does not dry out. Slice to produce oblique from the kidney.
Soil loosening and mulching
Roses need constant care, as well as loosening the soil around the plants (to a depth of 5-10 cm), especially in the hot period, after long rains, when a continuous crust forms.
As a result, all the weeds are destroyed, the air easily penetrates into the loosened soil, the earth warms up well, and loosening saves water. Deep loosening is dangerous for the rose, because even minor damage to the roots causes damage to the plant.
Usually, loosening begins in May, and ends in July-August in order to avoid the urge of the plant to grow further.
When caring for roses, mulching by peat, humus, and peat compost is used.
Such a bedding up to 10 cm reduces the number of irrigations and loosening, improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, the conditions of vital activity of soil microorganisms.
Therefore, in the spring, immediately after the spring works, it is necessary to pour mulching material between the bushes of roses, it is better to do this work before budding. If the bedding spoils the decorative look, later it will be possible to embed it into the soil using the loosening method.
Preparation of roses for winter and shelter
An important quality of roses is their resistance to low temperatures. However, when choosing a variety for unfavorable soils and slopes, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of roses. Especially it is necessary to protect large-flowered, multi-flowered varieties that should be spud for the winter and covered with plastic wrap.
For the winter, rose bushes gently bend down to the ground, cover with dry material (peat, spruce, leaves, sawdust), put old oilcloth (cellophane film) on top. Then the bushes securely cover the snow.
In early spring, when it gets a little warmer, the winter cover is gradually removed. Fully roses open only after thawing the soil. Pruning dried branches and, if necessary, shorten the shoots.
The variety is chosen taking into account the planting place - garden bed, flower bed, balcony or pot.
Roses are perennial crops that are grown in open ground. With such cultivation, great attention is paid to both preventive measures and the protection of plants against diseases and pests. Of great importance in the cultivation of roses is the selection of varieties characterized by increased resistance to disease.
Fertilizers and rose dressing
An important part of rose care is proper nutrition. It should be remembered that roses do not like acidic soil, require constant application of organic fertilizers, a sufficient number of various nutrients. Calcium is required to neutralize acidic soils: dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer are used.
Nitrogen promotes plant growth, roses need it after pruning (in early May), during the formation of new shoots, in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for the introduction of nitrogen - the beginning of August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic fertilizer, "Effecton - C", "Effecton - DC".
Phosphorus is necessary for the aging of strong shoots. It affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is made from June to September inclusive (superphosphate simple or double)
Potassium is needed during budding and flowering, as well as in preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil; it is introduced from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.
Trace elements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are necessary during the whole growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granular mineral extension) and "Agricola - Rose", any complete fertilizer (always contains trace elements) and wood ash.
In the first year after planting, when filling the soil with fertilizers, there is no need for additional feeding. In subsequent years, roses need regular nutrition.
Mineral fertilizers, primarily nitrogenous in the form of ammonium nitrate, are applied in early spring following the removal of the shelter and pruning. After applying the fertilizer, the soil is dug to a depth of 10 cm.
In the future, additional feeding is timed to the phases of plant growth and development - the beginning of flowering, the new growth of shoots.
Often make the mistake of adding fresh dung or bird droppings to the soil in spring to plant roses. For young seedlings, it is simply disastrous. Organic fertilizers are best given to plants in liquid form.
1 liter of a pasty mullein (cow dung) or poultry manure is diluted with 10 liters of water.
Bird droppings should be fermented in a barrel for up to 10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluting at the rate of 0.5-1 liter of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water. Water only under the bushes so as not to get flies.
After feeding with such unpleasantly smelling nutrients from above, you need to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk, then sprinkle it to a depth of 5-6 cm.
Usually in the spring, roses receive good nutrition from mulching, conducted in late autumn, in early November.
Usually, spayed cow dung or peat humus, or just well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus is poured into the bushes ... These organic substances are an excellent source of humus.
Thanks to this diet, the spring forms the root system more intensively in the spring, and if it is fed at this time with nitrogen (about 1 tablespoon of urea / urea), then the results will be precursory.
The approximate dose of fertilizer per 1 sq. M: ammonium nitrate 20 grams, superphosphate 30 grams, potash salt 10 grams. In the summer period, liquid feed with mullein is effective. Top dressing with nitrogenous fertilizers finish at the end of July. In August, potassium and phosphate fertilizers are applied to improve the aging of the shoots. With the same purpose limit watering.
Planting roses in the fall and spring - common points and features of the process for individual species
Having even a small suburban area, few people can refuse planting roses.
What to say about the luxurious territories of most country houses! The variety of varieties, shades and sizes of these flowers allows you to create an amazing garden that can be the envy of guests and a paradise for you.
However, at first you are waited by quite earthly concerns and questions: how are the roses planted in autumn or spring, which varieties to choose, how to plant and care for the seedlings.
Rosary from different varieties
Common moments of planting roses in the garden
Each variety of these beautiful flowers has its own characteristics relating to planting in open ground, subsequent care, flowering, fertilizer and wintering. For this reason, it is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of how to plant roses, but it is quite possible to identify some common points and fundamental differences between their main varieties.
Planting season - autumn or spring
There are no fundamental differences between planting roses in spring and autumn, but spring planting has some advantages.
- Suitable for beginners. Over the summer, the seedlings will get stronger and meet the cold winter full of energy. For inexperienced gardeners, such help from the weather is a good help in growing whimsical species.
- There is a time for plant acclimatization. If roses are not grafted in your climate zone, then before the frost they will have time to adapt to new conditions.
- Spring seedlings - better quality planting material. At this time of the year, they are in the “very juice”, distinguished by a developed and healthy root system.
Roses need a lot of light
Autumn planting roses carries the risk of death of seedlings from severe or early frosts and the acquisition of overexposed material with a weak root system.
Planting density seedlings
From the density of planting roses depends on the result that you get in 1-3 years. What should be guided by measuring the distance between the seedlings?
- The size of adult plants. The larger they are, the less often they should be planted. However, under all favorable conditions, even proven varieties may slightly deviate from the expected size or growth rate.
- The principle of rationality. An excessively thick planting will lead to the fact that most of the shoots will experience a catastrophic lack of light. The other extreme is too large a distance between the seedlings. It threatens the rapid drying of the soil and the growth of weeds.
- The quality of planting material. If it is in doubt, then the landing should be carried out with a smaller “step”.
Rosary along the walkway
Planting roses in the garden
First of all, pay attention to the seedlings. Before planting, they must be cut off, removing damaged roots, the weakest shoots, and buds. It is recommended to leave 3-4 healthy branches with 2-3 eyes.
It is important! The roots of seedlings before planting should not be dry, so they are pre-soaked in water. Depending on the state of the root system, this will take from 2 to 10 hours. In the water, you can add a growth promoter.
General rules of the rose garden
In the planting hole they form a small mound of soil and a sapling is lowered onto it. Pay attention: the place of grafting of a rose during planting should be buried about 5 cm into the ground. It is at this level that the seedling is held in the process of work.
All roots are carefully laid and straightened so that they do not bend upwards. Then the hole is covered with soil and slightly trampled down. After planting, the rose must be watered abundantly so that the soil gives a slight shrinkage and the excess air comes out. If necessary, fill the ground above.
Watering roses after planting
The next stage is hilling a flower by powdering it with primer at the roots. Such an earthen roller (about 20 cm in height) will protect a weak plant from the wind, the scorching sun or the first small cold. In two weeks, the sapling can be “released”. During this time he will get stronger enough.
Some gardeners additionally cover the ground around the flower with mulch (sawdust, needles, humus, sand), which allows it to maintain its optimum humidity and temperature. The soil looseness is also maintained, and its settling from irrigation and precipitation is prevented.
Mulching land in the planting pit
Mulching the soil around flowers
This is a general scheme of planting rose seedlings, but some species have their own characteristics.
Features planting roses and care for them
For bush varieties relevant general rules for planting roses, but there are some nuances of care. Firstly, foliar dressing is recommended for spray roses. Secondly, due to the proximity of the root system and the shoots to the surface of the earth, regular and careful removal of weeds is necessary.
Thirdly, for such roses it is especially important to have strong branches capable of producing flowers. All weak, growing in the center of the bush, shoots are cut. Note that in order for the plants to gain strength, in the first year after planting, they also remove all the buds.
Shrub roses in the garden
Planting and maintenance of climbing varieties
The characteristics of planting and caring for a climbing rose are associated with its ability to braid various supports, be it the facade of the house or the decorative grille or fence.So, to create a dense pink canvas, seedlings need to be planted not in the pits, but in a trench. The distance between them is usually 40–60 cm.
Climbing roses in the design of the facade
If the woven rose is planted near the building, then its foundation is additionally waterproofed. This measure prevents the destruction of concrete from abundant watering of the plant.
Climbing varieties require regular pruning. It is carried out in the spring and after each flowering. For the winter, all the shoots bend down to the ground, shift with spruce branches and cover with wooden houses. If there is no opportunity to bend down all the shoots, then they are covered directly on the support.
Planting standard roses
Features of planting and care of standard roses are due to the fact that they resemble small trees with a clearly marked trunk and crown. They need a larger planting pit than other species, since their root system is also more powerful. The distance between seedlings is usually 100-120 cm.
The most unusual thing in planting shtambovyh varieties is the deepening of seedlings into the ground at an angle of 30–40 degrees. This is done so that the plant can be bent to the ground for the winter.
Standard roses along the path
The krone also needs special attention. After planting, seedlings stimulate the growth of buds on the shoots, while protecting the plant. To this end, the crown for 10–14 days is laid with moss and covered. Subsequently, using trimming, it is given the optimum shape for this variety.
Obviously, the rose is a rather capricious young lady. It will take an enormous amount of work - from the preparatory theoretical moments to the practical care of the rooted seedling, but the result is worth it. You can surround yourself with the beauty of the most luxurious and amazing colors that have their history since ancient Rome!
For active development and abundant bloom garden roses need to be fed. In the first year of planting, this process can be skipped, since the required fertilizers have already been laid in the planting pit. Starting from the second season, fertilizing must be done: at the beginning of the growing season, when buds are formed, at the end of flowering and before the process of lignification of the stems.
After spring cutting of bushes twice, with a week break, 20 g of ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate are applied to each square meter of area. During the formation of buds and after flowering, 30 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate and 10 g of potassium salt should be added to the same area. In August - September, superphosphate and potassium salt are added to the soil: 30-40 grams per square meter. From organic fertilizers that should be alternated with mineral fertilizers, it is better to use wood ash and liquid manure in the rose garden.
How to transplant a plant
Garden roses, planting and care in the open field behind which require certain knowledge and skills, tends to grow, and therefore there is a loss of decorativeness in the bush. Therefore, sometimes plants have to be transplanted. The best time for such an action is October or April. Before transplanting a garden shrub rose, it is desirable to cut it to 20 cm, then you need to cut off all the leaves and remove the damaged branches. The plant is required to dig with an earthy lump and gently shift into a new hole, previously filled with water.
Features of the trimming
The most difficult moment in the care of garden roses is pruning, activating the development of shoots and rich flowering. This procedure is carried out from spring to autumn and has a different purpose. During spring pruning, the plant is freed from dried and old shoots with parallel shrub formation. The summer procedure is considered sanitary: of several flower buds, a larger specimen is left. You also need to remove the withered flowers and tangled fruit. In autumn, the plant prepares for the next wintering: damaged and dried shoots are cut.
How to properly prune such a gorgeous plant, like a garden rose? Planting and care in the spring frighten the inexperienced grower less than pruning a plant. There is nothing difficult in this procedure; it is only important to know some of its subtleties in order to safely deal with the plant in the future.
Garden rose, planting and caring which brings great aesthetic pleasure, multiplies in several ways:
- dividing the bush
Seed method is most often used in breeding hybrids, new varieties and for reproduction of wild roses. Harvested seeds are cleaned and immersed in wet sand for the purpose of stratification for 4 months. With the arrival of spring, they are kept in a growth stimulator for some time, and then sown.
Propagation by grafting is often used for park and indoor species and consists of rooting cuttings. They are cut at the moment when the garden rose begins to bloom. Planting and care (photos) are not difficult.
Propagate roses can be grafting method. Dog roots are used for the rootstocks, which have a highly developed root system and are characterized by high winter hardiness. With quality care, the grafted rose will turn into a powerful plant with a rich crown, ready to be transplanted to a new growth site.
Only root-bearing plants reproduce by dividing the bush. To do this in the spring (before bud break) or in the autumn, you need to dig up a bush, divide it into pieces using a sharp tool. The resulting plants should have one or two shoots and their roots. Slices need to be treated with crushed coal, and seedlings to plant in the usual way. With spring breeding, new plants can even please with abundant flowering and active growth.
When breeding by layering on the shoot growing from the root collar, it is required to make annular cuts of the bark, bend it and place it in a shallow groove prepared in advance. The branch must be fixed with a wire clip or hook and sprinkled with damp earth, leaving the tip on the surface. The latter must be tied to a peg, thus giving it a vertical direction of growth. During the summer, the kidney above the cuttings must be kept wet. Only the next spring can be separated from the parent instance of such young plants as garden roses. Planting, care (photos can be seen in the article) for them are watering, carrying out dressings and timely pruning.
About eustome and the Chinese rose
Against the background of flower crops, the Chinese rose and garden perennial eustoma, which are cultivated for cutting, stand out as a bright spot. For example, freshly cut eustoma can stand in a vase with water for about a month. The plant has meter stems, strong and graceful. Flowers bloom alternately and are characterized by different shades: white, purple, lilac, pink. In the half-opened form, eustoma resembles a rose, with full blooming it is very similar to poppy.
Large bright flowers of a wide range of colors, with a peephole of a contrasting color or a border around the edge, simple and double, bright, large - according to such signs a Chinese garden rose is recognized. Growing and caring for such a plant at home is not particularly difficult, it is important to choose the right planting place, water the plant regularly, remove weeds, loosen the soil and feed it in a timely manner. It is also important to control that the hibiscus bush (Chinese rose) does not thicken. You should know that the flower of the Chinese rose lives only a day, but with a lush bloom it is imperceptible. It is only important to remove faded flowers in a timely manner.
Diseases and pests
Roses, like any plant, can be subject to diseases and the invasion of harmful insects. Unfavorable growth conditions are one of the factors weakening the plant immunity.More often than others, roses are affected by rust, powdery mildew, chlorosis and black spot. Fungal diseases are treated with fungicides: 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur and 3% solution of blue vitriol. Chlorosis, which causes yellowing of the bush, develops due to the lack of nutrients in the soil, including iron. In this case, by analyzing the soil, one should find out which element is missing and eliminate the cause by adding its salts to the soil.
From insects, a garden rose, planting and caring for which is a permanent and responsible process, can be damaged by sucking (mites, aphids, whiteflies, cicadas, shields) and gnawing (sawfly larvae, bugs, caterpillars) pests. Both those and others cause enormous damage to plants. The first pierce the ground parts of the bush and suck the cell sap. As a result, a disturbance of life processes occurs in the plant, leading to the death of the shoots, twisting of the leaves and their falling off.
The activity of gnawing pests is aimed at disrupting the integrity of plant parts and leads to slower growth, poor flowering and loss of decorative features. You can fight pests by the fact of their appearance or use preventive measures and treat rose bushes with the insecticides “Rogor”, “Aktellik”, “Karbofos”. This should be done before the kidneys swell. From folk remedies, a solution of 2 g of kerosene diluted in 10 liters of water is effective. In the autumn after pruning, plant residues are required to be harvested and destroyed, and the bushes and soil should be treated with the above listed insecticides.
Adding an article to a new collection
Planting roses in open ground is not easy, especially for a novice grower. In the article we will describe in detail how to do it correctly in order to independently grow a beautiful rose garden.
The most suitable time for autumn planting of roses is from mid-September to early October. Plants planted during this period have a good time to get accustomed before the onset of frost and in the spring quickly start to grow. First of all, it concerns regions in which winter is rather mild. In the fall, the land is well warmed up, precipitation is sufficient, and therefore seedlings develop better than when they are planted in spring.
Choosing a place to land
Roses feel good in a sunny and sheltered area. At the same time, groundwater should be located not less than 1 m from the surface of the earth. It is also important to provide plants with good drainage. The liquid should not stagnate, so a good place for roses will be the southern slope, from which spring water will melt quickly.
It is also desirable that there should not be tall plants and trees near the rose garden, otherwise they will create a shadow for the flowers.
Preparing the soil for roses
Roses prefer fertile, drained, loose and moderately moist soil. Moreover, the thickness of the nutrient layer should be at least 40 cm. If the soil in your area is depleted, prepare a nutrient soil mixture from loamy soil and organic fertilizers (compost or humus) in a ratio of 1: 1 2-3 weeks before planting.
When planting in autumn, the soil must be prepared in advance.
If you purchased a seedling with an open root system, then a day before planting, soak it in water. After that, remove the leaves, cut off all the damaged roots with a sharp pruner, and cut them slightly to a healthy place, shorten the above-ground part to a length of 30 cm. Remove the buds below the graft site as well, because wild growth will grow from them.
Then spray the sapling with 3% iron sulphate, dip the roots in clay mixed with a mullein in a 2: 1 ratio. This will protect the rose from diseases and pests.
Carefully inspect the rose sapling. It must have at least three well-developed intact shoots.Saplings with an open root system should have branched roots and many small roots.
We plant roses in the fall in 6 steps
1. Dig a hole 40 cm in diameter and 50-70 cm deep.
2. At the bottom, pour drainage from broken brick, pebbles or expanded clay, if the soil is heavy, or lay a layer of clay 7 cm thick, if the soil is sandy. Top with a hill fertile land.
3. Place a seedling on it, gently straightening the roots.
4. Fill the remaining space with the soil that was dug out of the hole or prepared with a soil mixture (see the section “Preparing the soil for roses”), mixing it with 1-2 glasses of ash.
The root neck of a seedling or a grafting site should be 5 cm below the surface of the earth, and in standard roses - 10 cm.
5. Soil lightly tamp and pour heavily. To better water soaked, it is better to do in several passes. Total liquid flow should be 1-2 buckets per bush.
6. To prevent the roots of the plant from freezing during the autumn frosts, spud the seedlings with a layer of dry peat 15–20 cm thick. This will also help to retain moisture in the soil. After 2 weeks, peat the hill slightly flatten.
When planting flowers in groups, note: the distance between the bushes of park roses should be 75-90 cm. Polyanthus, hybrid tea and floribunda roses should be planted at a distance of 30-60 cm. And when planting climbing and standard roses, the distance between the bushes should be increased to 1 m .
What to do if late in planting roses?
If in the fall the weather suddenly turned bad, and you have not had time to plant the seedlings of roses that you previously purchased, you should not do it hastily, as the plants will not have time to take root. Better before spring, dig them in a slanted position in a greenhouse or in a trench (about 40 cm deep) dug in unprotected soil. When the frosts begin, cover the saplings with spruce leaves and peat, and pile it with snow on top.
In addition, seedlings can be placed in the basement with a temperature of about 0 ° C.
In the autumn you can also plant the cuttings of roses. If you are interested in this method of breeding flowers, read the article:
Growing roses from cuttings among gardeners is the most popular and simple way of reproduction. Its effectiveness depends on the type and variety of roses. If you compare plants grown from cuttings with grafted seedlings, the rooted flowers are thus better adapted to the growing conditions and soil composition. Plants growing in this way live longer and do not give a stormy growth. The easiest way to take root flowers:
- hybrid tea,
- polyanthus hybrids, miniature,
For growing roses, lignified and semi-lignified shoots are used. Ligneous seedlings are prepared for autumn or spring pruning, for this you can also use broken shoots. They are kept at a temperature of about 0 degrees Celsius in the middle lane. Before planting such seedlings must be rooted. For example, for this you can use the method of burrito. With this method, you get a small percentage of lunge, it does not take much time.
The cuttings are prepared as follows..
- Clean and healthy shoots need to be cut into pieces of approximately 25-30 cm.
- A straight upper cut is made in the middle between two buds, and the lower oblique under the lower bud.
- Prepared bundle of cuttings should be wrapped in a newspaper, moistened with water and placed in a bag. They are stored at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius.
- After two weeks of the bundle, you need to deploy and check for the presence of callus. If it is absent, the seedlings must be removed again.
- After three or four weeks you need to re-check the roots.
- Cuttings must be planted in the ground, buried to the first kidney. Above you need to put a plastic bottle or mini-hothouse.
To stimulate the rooting of the cuttings, they can be soaked in a solution of heteroauxin or root. Instead of a growth stimulator, willow infusion can be used.To do this, equally cut pieces of green or yellow willow shoots are put into a glass, and up to half of their thickness is poured with warm water. A day later, the decoction is ready for use. This infusion can be watered when planting young cuttings.
Semi-woody seedlings root better. It is better to prepare them during the creation of bdrowns or early flowering. For this, it is necessary to take the middle part of the selected shoot and cut it into pieces 8 or 11 cm long with two buds. The top layer must be made straight, and the bottom at an angle of 45 degrees, under the kidney. To reduce the evaporation of moisture, the lower leaves need to be cut off, and the rest cut off by half.
On the eve of the planting date, it is necessary to soak in the root formation stimulator. The substrate should consist of leaf or grain ground, sand and humus. In the garden bed, it is necessary to fill in the prepared soil mixture. Plant plants need to be tilted. Top seedlings need to fall asleep river sand.
Seedlings need to be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate, each cutting is covered with a plastic bottle. Or a mini-greenhouse is being made for the whole garden. Rooted plants leave for winter. Then the roses are transplanted to the long-term place next spring.
This method roses grow mainly for new varieties. But not all flowers can be grown in this way. Plants that were obtained from seeds may not retain varietal characteristics. Easy to breed seeds:
- red and brown roses,
- ordinary dogrose.
Planting material can be purchased or collected from the vending bush. When self-harvesting fruit we must take the immature, because the seeds of them are obtained with the best germination. Sowing the fruit must be cut in half, pull out the seeds, and disinfect them within 25 minutes in a pharmacy solution of hydrogen peroxide.
In nature, rose seeds undergo natural stratification, therefore, to obtain seedlings of roses in the country, it is necessary to create similar conditions:
- Water-retaining material is put on the container, for example gauze. The seeds are laid out on it in a single layer, then they need to be covered with a cotton disc and put into a bag.
- The container must be placed on the lower shelf of the refrigerator at a temperature of + 7 degrees Celsius and left there for about 2 months.
- Periodically, the film must be opened for airing and control of seeds.
- As soon as the seeds have risen, they need to be put in peat pots and grown at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius.
Rules for planting garden roses in the open ground at the cottage
Best of all, if planting roses in open ground is carried out in the spring months. So the plant gets more opportunities for acclimatization and build-up of the root system.
For planting roses in the country, you can use seedlings and cuttings, purchased and your own billet.
This article describes in detail the planting of roses in the ground in the spring and gives all the necessary instructions for using this agricultural technology in the fall. If everything is done correctly, then the planting of a garden rose this summer will please, though not very lush, but it is a very desirable flowering plant.
How to choose a rose for planting flowers in the garden
Before you choose a rose for planting, answer the following questions:
- where will you plant the rose
- what color are the flowers,
- what size should be an adult bush,
- Which group do you prefer?
- what kind of variety will it be - modern or old,
- with which root system the seedling will give preference.
When choosing a variety for planting roses in the garden, pay attention to the resistance of the whole plant to disease, and flowers to rain.
A variety of seedlings for planting rose flowers is amazing, but when making a choice, you need to focus on the practical advice of experienced growers.
The supplied rose seedlings come with an open root system, with a closed root system and grown in containers.Saplings with an open root system should have three or two healthy shoots.
Root system without land, at least 25 cm long.
They can be planted throughout the summer. It is better to purchase seedlings with an open root system. If they are properly stored, plants will easily survive after planting.
Terms of planting roses in spring and autumn
In the fall in central Russia, roses are planted in August and September. This is the optimal time for planting roses in the open field, you should not do this later. Root seedlings with an open root system should be with green bark, a good fibrous root system. Do not buy roses, which have wrinkled bark on the branches - they will not survive.
But the timing of planting roses in the spring is somewhat stretched. In the spring, in the middle zone, roses are planted from late April to late May. Many roses come to our market and are sold in hypermarkets.
The likelihood that you will grow a rose in accordance with the grade indicated on the package is small.
Planting roses in the fall should be carried out exactly within the specified time, but in the spring you can plant the cuttings at home early, for example, in March.
Some garden centers deliver roses in February. How to keep the roses before planting: this can be done only in the dark at a temperature of about 0 ° C. If the rose has dried, hold it for several hours in a bucket of water.
If the seedling began to frown on the bark on the branches, put it in the water for a day. Then wrap the roots and graft site in a damp newspaper or cloth. Put on a plastic bag. On top of the branches before the spring planting of roses, also wear a package.
Store the rose in a cool place (temperature not higher than 4 ° C).
If the roses have woken up, the shoots that have grown by 2-3 cm should be broken, it will not hurt, because new buds will wake up. Pick up a pot of at least 4-5 liters, you can use a cylinder out of the water, cutting off the top of it and making holes in the bottom. The soil is either universal floral or special for roses. Place the seedling so that the grafting site is 1-2 cm below the edge of the pot.
If the roots do not fit, trim them. To prevent fungal diseases, put a glyocladin tablet in the pot. Water well. The soil should be wet throughout the volume. After planting, you must put the pot in a bright, cool place. Rose in a pot of 2 l - in fact, also a sapling with an open root system, only sprinkled with substrate from drying.
The first thing to do is to put the rose pot in a bucket of water so that it is completely covered with water. Keep it in a bucket until the bubbles stop going.
Take out the pot and put it on the pan so that the glass is water. If the rose with sleeping buds, then put the pot in a dark, cool place, wearing a cap on the branches from the newspaper.
If the rose is awake, put it in a bright cool room.
Buying roses in late autumn. You purchased a sapling of roses in the prewinter, when the earth was grabbed slightly by frost. At this time, roses should be placed in the prikop. Select a site that is not filled with vernal waters.
Dig a trench 30-35 cm deep, place roses under our name, so that the roots, the grafting site and part of the branches are covered with earth. If the frost has already grabbed the ground, then buy a package of ready-mixed soil.
Place lutrasil in a trench, pour a part of the mixture, on it - roses, on top of them - the remaining mixture and cover it with lutrasil. Lay frostbite on top. If the snow fell, throw them prikop.
The roses are planted in spring in late April - May, or in September. Own and standard roses are planted only in spring. All purchased seedlings, or rather their root system, before planting it is useful to place for 20-30 minutes in a solution of copper sulphate (1 tbsp spoonful per 10 liters of water) to prevent diseases.
If you still have 2-3 weeks before planting, then the soil can be shed with diluted extract of fermented grass or mullein. It is also good to use the solution of the Radiance drug.After the ground, it is desirable to close the black lutrasil.
The depth of planting roses depends on the structure of the soil and the site itself. You may have a soil that quickly passes moisture or, conversely, is overwetted. These two extremes require a different approach.
For proper planting of roses in the spring in dry conditions, the grafting site should be deepened by 5 cm.
If you have a constant excess of moisture, you need to make a bulk bed and plant a rose so that the place of inoculation was above the general level of the soil in your area, but 3-5 cm below the level of the soil in the flowerbed. This will allow the rose to not lock and freeze.
Hold the cutting on the day of planting in a heteroauxin or zircon solution for 10-12 hours. Dig holes 30–35 cm deep. The distance between the plants is about 40 cm. Put rotted manure at the bottom of the pit and sprinkle with earth. Trim the roots to 2-3 cm.
When planting roses in the spring, keep in mind that there is a balance between the above-ground and underground parts of the plant. So, shorten the long shoots of a climbing rose to 20-30 cm.
Planting roses with an open root system implies the need to create conditions for the rapid acclimatization of the plant.
Liberally pour a seedling of 5-10 liters of water, spud earth and pritenite lutrasilom. Keep the seedling under the lutrasil for two weeks. During this time, the buds begin to grow.
When the shoots become apparent, unravel the bushes, prune the branches.
Be sure to grouch the ground around the bushes! You need to add a compost bucket, a glass of ash, 1 glass of bone meal to one plant pit, provided that this site was previously well prepared.
Sapling in a 2-liter pot is not truly rooted. The substrate in pots contains a lot of peat, often overdried.
Before planting roses with a closed root system, place the seedling in a bucket of water so that the pot is completely submerged in water, and hold until bubbles stop appearing on the surface.
With a water wetted lump, the rose will die. Prepare a hole, free the sapling from the pot or metal mesh and lower the seedling into it.
Put the pot in a bucket of water. Dig a hole a little larger than a pot, taking into account the depth of the grafting site. Loosen the bottom of the pit, add compost. Carefully free the seedling from the pot and place it in a hole.
If a ball is strongly entwined with roots, cut it in several places and flatten the roots. Pour with a mixture of soil and compost, spill well, grumble the soil. Pot roses require more care than roses with an open root system.
The main thing here - regular watering.
Kornes own roses
Kornes own roses are planted in spring. Shoots before planting must be pruned. The level of the earth coma should be 2-3 cm below the soil level of the flowerbed. The rest is like when planting grafted roses. Kornes own roses do not spud.
Planting Climbing Roses
When planting climbing roses, consider the following:
- where the support will be located
- where the rose will be tilted at shelter.
It is necessary to provide that a climbing rose, growing, will occupy a lot of places because the shoots from these roses are long.
Planting a standard rose
Standard roses are planted in spring. It is necessary to place the rose in the landing pit, rejecting it by about 30 ° in the direction in which it will be necessary to tilt the stem for shelter. I root the neck of the neck by 10 centimeters. Beforehand, I drive a strong stake into the hole, which I have to get to the crown. I leave the rose in a tilted state for 2-3 days, and then I tie it up to a support in 2-3 places.
One garter must be at the base of the crown. After planting, the crown should be well sprinkled with water, and the grafting sites should be wrapped in wet moss. You can wear a bag made of lutrasil. This prevents the boles from drying out during rooting. All this time you need to make sure that the moss was wet. As soon as the buds begin to germinate, you can remove protective materials.
It is better to do this in the evening or in cloudy weather.
What to do after planting roses
It is time to learn about what to do after planting roses, what agrotechnical measures for plant care should be planned.
Mulch can be compost, rotted manure, mowed grass, bark shredded in a shredder, or boughs of trees, straw.
Mulch interferes with the appearance of weeds, soil crust, saves the soil from drying out, provides nourishment to soil bacteria, and when it turns over it enriches the soil with organic substances.
It can also serve as an ornament. The thickness of the layer of mulch is not less than 5 cm. Roses are usually mulched after spring pruning.
Rose needs to be unleashed, to remove pritenyuschie bags of lutrasil. Loosening the soil for a while can replace watering. It is important to avoid problems associated with the appearance of diseases or with the attack of pests.
If the rose does not wake up for a long time, the use of drugs of different spectrum of action helps. First you need to water a sapling with heteroauxin or humates. Then I use the help of zircon and epin. I water with zircon, and after a week I spray with epin, after another week I spray with zircon, then again with epin.
When to plant roses?
Planting time is spring and autumn. In spring, the best time is before the start of growth, it may be from March to May, depending on the climatic zone. Autumn transplanted after the onset of cool nights and flowering. When planting in autumn, it is important that the rose has time to take root before the soil freezes.
Selection of seedlings
Buy seedlings need in specialized centers or take from proven nurseries. This is the only way to be sure of the correctness of the variety and the health of the plant. At garden exhibitions, it is better to choose trees, shrubs and perennial flowers from nurseries close to the climate zone. It makes no sense to plant roses that can not winter in your area.
More attention needs to be paid to the condition of the roots of the shrub than to its crown. The branches will grow if the plant is rooted normally. The root system must be healthy, branched, free from damage and rot.
Sometimes in the autumn markets sell rose bushes with flowers. This seems like a good option - you can see what you are buying - but such plants do not take root well. The seedling should be prepared for the rest period.
New seedlings purchased, the question arises - where to plant roses, so that they are healthy and pleased with abundant flowering?
How to choose seedlings for planting
When choosing seedlings for the future decoration of your garden is better to pay attention to the grafted specimens. They are characterized by a more powerful and developed root system, excellent frost resistance, good survival and a large number of flowers on the bushes. Grafted seedlings are less susceptible to disease.
In the care of such a plant, you have to spend more time, because grafted roses require the obligatory removal of wild growth (over time, it can turn a beautiful flower into an ordinary dog rose, since in most cases all cultural varieties are planted from it). Own-rooted plants do not need such actions.
When choosing seedlings of roses, do not forget to pay attention to their foliage. It should not be lethargic or dry. Shoots of plants should also be different strength and not have cracks or stains. The number of shoots on a good seedling can not be less than 3.
When you buy a plant with an open root system, you will have a chance inspect the roots and determine their condition. And in this case there should be no damage.
If the selected seedling does not meet the specified requirements, then roses with such features can not be a worthy decoration of your yard.
When you need to plant roses, tips on preparing the soil for planting a flower
Before answering the question “How to plant roses?”, It is necessary to find out when it is possible to plant. Shrubs are planted 2 times a year: in spring and autumn (before the onset of frost). The autumn planting is preferable, because until spring all the plants have time to settle well and bloom earlier than the roses that were planted in the spring.
In mid-latitude, an autumn landing is carried out from mid September to mid October, and if the seedlings are planted earlier, then there is a high probability of awakening dormant buds, which will die immediately with the onset of cold weather.
Too late planting is considered unfavorable, since saplings may not have time to take root and will also suffer from frost. If you have “guessed” with the planting dates, after 10-12 days new young roots will begin to appear on the seedling, which will have time to adapt before the onset of frost and calmly survive the cold winter.
In the spring (if the roses were planted in the fall) such plants begin to quickly form the root and aerial parts, and flowering occurs along with old, perennial bushes. At the same time, the flowers that were planted in the spring, on average bloom 2 weeks later and require more attention.
Before planting the plants, the soil must be properly prepared by feeding them with mineral and organic fertilizers. Of the organic options, the best solution is manure, and the first top-dressing with complex mineral fertilizer should be thorough, but not more than 15-20 grams per bush (a large dose will adversely affect flowers).
If spring planting of plants is foreseen, then in the fall it will be necessary to dig a capacious pit up to 1.2 m deep and half a meter in diameter. It is filled with drainage (branches, large crushed stone, expanded clay) are suitable, and a mixture of garden soil and humus is placed on top, adding mineral fertilizers along the way. When planting roses in the fall, pits for shrubs are prepared for 1-1.5 months.
How to water a rose
Caring for roses in the garden provides for abundant, but infrequent watering. The ground under the bushes should not dry out, and the first sign that your rose needs water is wilted flowers and leaves of the plant. Usually, an average rose bush requires about 5 liters of liquid, while a climbing plant requires 15 liters.
The water used for irrigation should not contain chlorine or be too cold, because for normal life support of the bush it should be watered with slightly warmed water in the sun. The larger the bush becomes (roses are constantly growing and forming), the more water will be spent on watering.
Flower feeding rules
If you are breeding roses, then you probably know that caring for them and growing them in the garden require periodic fertilization to the soil. In this plan it is better to give preference to a natural top dressing - to manure. The ideal option is horse manure, which has at least six months of exposure. The waste of chickens or pigs (especially in the fresh form) can only harm the plants: because of the acid contained in them, the young shoots simply burn. Fresh manure has a bad effect on soil, blocking nitrogen.
In the process of budding, it is necessary to feed the plant with calcium nitrate solution (1 table spoon per 10 liters of water), and during the active growth and development of the rose, it is necessary to water it every 10-15 days with infusion of herbs, a solution of mineral fertilizers, infused mullein or chicken manure . In order for the plant to better perceive the fertilizer applied (for example, mineral fertilizers), it must be fed in a dissolved form, immediately after the next watering. In the second part of July, roses stop feeding. Bushes begin to prepare for the cold.
How to cut a rose
It is very important for roses to form a bush with the help of a mechanical action, this is especially important when caring for a plant in open ground. Pruning is carried out by removing all damaged and weak branches, as well as those that are directed into the bush bush. After that, it is more clear how to further form the bush.
Pruning roses after flowering is done at the request of the gardener, but during the procedure it is necessary to leave at least two buds on the shoots. Do not be afraid to perform this procedure: after cutting the rose more actively acquires new greenery. Caution should be exercised only with the rose, which is not so quickly regaining shape or the soil under it is too poor.
With the onset of autumn, all faded flowers and damaged shoots are removed from the bush. All sections are immediately treated with garden pitch.
Plant Transplant Method
In some cases, caring for a plant provides for a rose transplant to a new place. However, first you need to make sure that the growing conditions at the new place will not differ from the previous ones: the rose will be able to receive enough sunlight and will be protected from the wind. If this is all right, then proceed to the preparation of the pit, filling it according to the requirements of the plant.
First of all, remove all weed roots from the selected location. Then, leave the pit for a couple of days - the earth should settle. After that, it will be possible to proceed to digging out a bush. You need to try to dig a rose with a big earthy ball. This is quite a difficult task, because the land under the rosaries is very loose and easily crumbling. Therefore, before digging to keep the land better, it should be watered, and to facilitate the work near the bush it is tied.
It happens that the rose “does not notice” the transplantation and immediately takes root in a new place, but more often, especially when transplanted in spring or summer, the rose will recover for a long time. Roses are quite tenacious, therefore, both care under standard conditions and their transplant is a laborious process, but not dangerous for roses.
How to prepare a rose for winter
Preparing the rose for winter begins in the middle of summer, stopping to feed the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers (at this time the roses get potash and phosphorus baits). From mid-September, faded blossoms are cut off, allowing the rose to fade before hibernation. Many gardeners are interested in the question: "Should I prune garden flowers in the fall?" This is not a mandatory action, but in some cases pruning shoots makes it easier to cover the plants.
In the hybrid tea species, ½ the height of old branches is shortened in the autumn, while park roses and scars are shortened only by 1/3 of their height. Climbing, miniature and ground cover species do not prune, trying to cover them along the entire length.
Before the shelter of garden roses, they cut off all the leaves and inflorescences, because under the snow cover they can become a source of fungal diseases. In addition, on the back of the leaves are often preserved pests. To destroy them, Before the plants are covered with foil, the bush and the soil under it should be treated with 5% solution of copper sulfate. As well as caring for roses, preparing plants for winter will not take much time and energy from you, the main thing is to conduct all the activities described on time.
How to propagate roses
There are not many ways to breed roses, However, the desire of gardeners to have as many of these wonderful flowers as possible on their plot makes them study each method thoroughly. Let us and we will consider each of them.
The method of breeding garden roses cuttings is good because rooted plants will not give wild shoots. The stalk is part of a strong shoot, and is cut near the leaf bud. After germination using rooting stimulants, when roots appear on the cuttings, you get a ready seedling that can be transferred to the ground.
The propagation of roses by cutting method involves rooting of two types of stem shoots: lignified and lumbering and most often used for breeding room or park roses. Basically cuttings are cut when the green shoots of roses begin to harden (at the beginning of the flowering bush), but too lignified specimens are not suitable for this role.
Propagation of roses by seeds is rare. First of all, the result has to wait long enough and secondly, nAnd when you can not be completely sure that it will be positive. Seed germination in the propagation of roses leaves much to be desired.
The budding of the rose involves the following steps. On the bark of the plant stem (as close as possible to the ground level) it is necessary to make a T-shaped incision and insert a kidney of the selected cultivar into it. After that, it is fixed with a film. The graft can use the advanced root system of the stock. The operation itself is simple, although it requires some experience.
Reproduction by layering
Climbing and shrub roses, which are mainly found in gardens, propagate by layering. This method is considered the most suitable, largely due to the fact that such plants have long and strong stems.
The sprout of a rose is cut at the bottom (by annular cuts of the bark), after which a match or sliver is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in a pre-dug shallow groove in the ground and fixed there. The free end must be tied to a peg hammered in advance. Top shoots sprinkled with earth (the top must remain outside).
Over time, the rooted escape must be cut off from the parent bush (in most cases, this happens the next spring, even though it can take root by autumn). In this way, you can get new bushes not only from own-rooted roses, but also from grafted ones. The Rose - wonderful plant which with proper care will delight you for many years. When a place for planting roses is chosen, then it is imperative to dig a lot deep to destroy perennial weeds. If this is not done, then they will have to be destroyed later, and at the same time it is easy to damage the roots of the newly established plant. In the fertile garden soil, the planting pit is dug up to such a size that the root system can easily fit there and has a small reserve of growth (plus 10-15 cm). The top layer of soil (approximately 20-25 cm) is the most fertile, it is removed and deposited, the next layer of earth (20-25 cm) is poured on another pile. The pit deepens to the required depth, its bottom is well dug up and mixed with the top layer of the removed soil. It is useful to water so that the soil settles before planting. Dense clay or sand at the site dictate their conditions. The pit is digging more than is required for the root system, fertile soil with fertilizer is poured into it, slightly compacted or shed with water for precipitation. In dense clay soil at the bottom of the pit for better drainage, it is desirable to pour gravel or broken brick. In heavy soils it is useful to add peat, compost, well-rotted manure, sand, ash. Purchased seedlings of roses is best planted immediately after purchase. If this is not possible, then you need to put them in a cool and dark place. Seedlings sent by mail sometimes come too early, when the soil is still not thawed. They need to be placed in a cool dark place, sprinkle open roots with moist loose soil. When buying seedlings with open roots, you can see the status and size of the root system, but it is unknown how long they were stored in this form. Dried roots can be soaked for a day, it will help save the plants. If the seedlings are sold with trimmed roots, the slices need to be updated, cutting them with shears by a few millimeters. Purchased with a closed root system seedlings removed from the package before planting. If the roots are in the film, then it is useful to unwind it and soak the roots in water or a root formation stimulator for a couple of hours. Roses supplied with a closed root system in containers, manufacturers recommend planting as is - in the grid, peat pot or other container supplier. If there is no experience, do so. But it is better to carefully remove the plant and inspect the roots. There are often a lot of damaged, broken, curved roots, which is unacceptable during planting. Experts advise before planting the roots of the seedling to dip into the talker of the following composition: 2 parts of clay, 1 part of fresh mullein and some water to bring to a creamy state. This will protect the roots and give them the necessary nutrition for the first time. No matter how the rose is planted, the main thing is to follow two rules:
How to prepare a place for landing
Planting a rose
The Rose - wonderful plant which with proper care will delight you for many years.
When a place for planting roses is chosen, then it is imperative to dig a lot deep to destroy perennial weeds. If this is not done, then they will have to be destroyed later, and at the same time it is easy to damage the roots of the newly established plant.
In the fertile garden soil, the planting pit is dug up to such a size that the root system can easily fit there and has a small reserve of growth (plus 10-15 cm).
The top layer of soil (approximately 20-25 cm) is the most fertile, it is removed and deposited, the next layer of earth (20-25 cm) is poured on another pile.
The pit deepens to the required depth, its bottom is well dug up and mixed with the top layer of the removed soil. It is useful to water so that the soil settles before planting.
Dense clay or sand at the site dictate their conditions.
The pit is digging more than is required for the root system, fertile soil with fertilizer is poured into it, slightly compacted or shed with water for precipitation.
In dense clay soil at the bottom of the pit for better drainage, it is desirable to pour gravel or broken brick. In heavy soils it is useful to add peat, compost, well-rotted manure, sand, ash.
Purchased seedlings of roses is best planted immediately after purchase. If this is not possible, then you need to put them in a cool and dark place. Seedlings sent by mail sometimes come too early, when the soil is still not thawed. They need to be placed in a cool dark place, sprinkle open roots with moist loose soil.
When buying seedlings with open roots, you can see the status and size of the root system, but it is unknown how long they were stored in this form. Dried roots can be soaked for a day, it will help save the plants. If the seedlings are sold with trimmed roots, the slices need to be updated, cutting them with shears by a few millimeters.
Purchased with a closed root system seedlings removed from the package before planting. If the roots are in the film, then it is useful to unwind it and soak the roots in water or a root formation stimulator for a couple of hours.
Roses supplied with a closed root system in containers, manufacturers recommend planting as is - in the grid, peat pot or other container supplier. If there is no experience, do so. But it is better to carefully remove the plant and inspect the roots. There are often a lot of damaged, broken, curved roots, which is unacceptable during planting.
Experts advise before planting the roots of the seedling to dip into the talker of the following composition: 2 parts of clay, 1 part of fresh mullein and some water to bring to a creamy state. This will protect the roots and give them the necessary nutrition for the first time.
No matter how the rose is planted, the main thing is to follow two rules:
Digged earth can be used to fill the pit. But it is better to prepare a fertile mixture of about this composition:
- 1 bucket of fertile garden land,
- 0.5 buckets of humus, sand, peat, clay, sod land,
- 1 handful of ash, bone meal and complex mineral fertilizer.
All components are mixed in a large container or poured onto a spread film and mix.
First way. At the bottom of the pit slurry cooked mixture. Over its surface evenly distribute the roots of the rose so that they do not bend upwards.
Gradually fill the roots with earth, carefully compacting it with your hands.
It is good to water a sapling, and if after that it is noticeable that the earth has strongly settled and the grafting site has turned out to be too deep, then the sapling will slightly raise and add earth.
Second way. Pour a bucket of water into the prepared pit. You can dissolve a rooting stimulator tablet in it.
Lower the seedling into the pit to the desired depth and gradually fill the roots with the prepared soil mixture. The earth immediately gets wet and does not form voids filled with air.
With this method of planting the soil almost does not settle, moisture in the depths of the pit is enough for the development of the plant.
Care of the planted rose is timely watering in hot spring weather. Autumn watered as necessary, often enough rain. It is better to water in the evening, so that the crust does not form in the sun, making it difficult for the roots to get water.
If at planting mineral fertilizers were not applied, the soil was not enriched with humus, then at the beginning of the active growth of young shoots it is recommended to apply fertilizers specially designed for roses.
After the rose has got accustomed, cut off old escapes and weak sprouts, leaving only strong and healthy. It stimulates the growth of its crown and root system.
Planting roses with a closed root system
Now popular seedlings of roses with a closed root system (ZKS). These are roses that are sold already planted in containers. These seedlings have their advantages: they quickly and easily take root, if planting in open ground is done correctly. How should they be planted?
Roses with a closed root system do not require immediate planting, in good conditions they can be maintained for a long time, even until next year. It is best to put pots with roses in a shady windless place in the garden. To the roots do not overheat and do not dry out, it is desirable to dig pots into the soil or sawdust.
Water the seedlings of roses regularly before planting. Spraying leaves with plain water is also helpful. If planting is delayed for more than 2-3 weeks, start weekly feeding seedlings with liquid or soluble fertilizer for flower seedlings.
Need precisely seedling fertilizers used for plants in pots. Specialized fertilizer for roses in the care of seedlings are not suitable.
They are ideal for roses already planted in the ground, and if you pour these fertilizers into a container, you can accidentally burn the roots.
If you bought rose seedlings at the end of winter or early spring, when the temperature is still below zero, they will have to be stored and looked after indoors. How to do this, read the article: Save the roses before planting.
Place for planting roses
The rose can grow in one place for decades, so a place to plant requires careful preparation.
Prepare a landing hole. The size of the landing hole for roses 60x60, depth 50 cm. Leave the upper fertile layer of soil near the pit, remove the lower layers of soil.
Soil for planting roses should be loose and fertile, so add humus or well-rotten compost, peat, sand to the soil from the upper layer, as well as 0.5 cups of double superphosphate.
Roses prefer a neutral soil, so add additional additives to reduce the acidity of the soil: 1-2 glasses of wood ash or 1 cup of dolomite flour. All components are thoroughly mixed and fill the landing pit with a mixture.
If you dug a landing hole just before planting a rose, then pour the mixture in layers, compacting each layer so that after watering the ground is not too settled.
How to plant roses
Plant roses right in the grid or in a cardboard insert, but those parts of the insert where the roots have not yet had time to germinate can be carefully removed.
This will provide air access to the root system, and the rose will root better after planting.
Place the seedling in the prepared recess. Check again the level of deepening of the top of the earth coma (5-7 cm) and pour the solution remaining after soaking into the well.
Pour the hole with the remaining fertile mixture flush with the edge of the pit, so that during the rain it does not get too much rain water and stagnate.
Pour over. After watering a rose seedling after planting, you need at least 8-10 liters of water to soak all the soil in the planting well.
After watering, check the rose planting level again. If necessary, correct: either pour the soil, or, conversely, gently pull the base of the bush so that the root neck is closer to the soil surface.
After irrigation, grumble the surface with peat to avoid formation of a soil crust.
If the weather is hot, then for the first time after planting the roses should be priten. The easiest way to put a small arc and pull on them any covering material.
How to plant roses bought in a box: the selection and cultivation of seedlings
Many are accustomed to purchased seedlings of roses with open roots and long stems. And recently appeared on sale cardboard tubes in which shortened copies are packed, the flower growers are alarming.
There is an opinion that these seedlings have little chance of rooting because of the very pruned roots and sprouts. In fact, the flower dies due to improper unpacking and planting.
How to plant roses bought in a box, which should take into account what kind of care is needed for the culture - we will describe all this later in the article.
The usual careful examination of the stems and root system, which is the key to a successful purchase of any seedling, in this case does not work. In the box you will find a rose with strongly shortened shoots and roots, which are wrapped in black polyethylene.
To see the state of the roots in the store or garden center is almost impossible. After all, unpacking planting material is not allowed. Yes, and incorrect extraction of the seedling from the tube can only harm him.
Important!So that buying a rose in a box does not turn into your disappointment, choose seedlings with several strong rots, on which there is a healthy and solid bark of green color, and there are several peeping buds. Very good, if the stems of a rose covered with wax or paraffin.
Carefully read the information on the packaging.Experienced growers are advised to give preference to grafted samples, because they easily adapt to the soil and climatic conditions of the temperate zone, develop better and bloom profusely.
Also well proven seedlings of the southern varieties of domestic or Dutch production.
Remember that bright alluring photos with roses of unreal beauty on the package often do not justify themselves precisely because of the stunted and not viable content of the tuba.
Therefore, do not hesitate to examine the available part of the product. Pay special attention to the root neck of the seedling. It should be uniform and not exceed 8 mm in volume.
Some buyers mistakenly believe that seedlings with tall shoots will bloom immediately after rooting. In fact, such instances, as a rule, do not survive.
This happens because they are weakened, and as a result of a long stay in warm conditions without the necessary lighting they have increased many thin but not viable shoots.
Did you know?The Egyptian queen Cleopatra also went down in history as a zealous fan of roses.
No solemn event with her participation could not do without these beautiful flowers. Their petals, on the orders of the Queen, densely carpeted the floors of the halls for balls. In special cases, these floorings reached half a meter in height.
Rose petals swaying on the waves always accompanied Cleopatra on her walk to the gallery.
How to save before landing
Experts consider the period from the second decade of April to the first day of May to be the optimal time for rooting acquired seedlings. At this time, the earth warmed up sufficiently, and stable heat recovered outside.
Often the roses in the box appear on sale at the end of February, so we’ll understand in detail how to save them before planting.
The first option is to artificially suspend the development of a seedling. To this end, it is placed for a month in the refrigerator, on the balcony or in an unheated veranda. Closer to the time of planting, it is desirable to give the plant a few days to move away from forced hibernation.
Another way for caring owners who are not too lazy to prikopat seedling or plant it in a small indoor pot. Before this, it is advisable to inspect the roots, remove all damaged parts and treat them with growth stimulants.
Experts advise shortening long roots. Potted roses from the tube after planting need to cover the package and put on the balcony or veranda.
Heat during this period is contraindicated because the flower will develop greatly before transplanting to a permanent place and is unlikely to survive such stress.
Did you know?Muslim peoples are very careful with rose bushes. Since ancient times, these flowers are considered the gift of Allah, so no one is allowed to step on the fallen petals.
Lighting on the site
Roses are very fond of the sun and light partial shade. In such conditions, they are provided with abundant flowering and aroma.
If the rose bush for some reason turns out to be in full shade, it will significantly lag behind in growth, it will greatly stretch and may stop blooming.
Therefore, for the landing of the garden queen, choose well-lit areas where there are no drafts and cold northerly winds. Avoid cold lowlands, because they tend to collect cold air, melt and rain water.
So that the roses in the box are well rooted and delight you with lush flowers, take seriously the peculiarities of the substrate in the chosen area. It must be of high quality and nutritious, since the root system of the bushes goes far inland.
Important!In the area where the planting of roses is planned, the groundwater level should not be closer to the surface than 1 m.
The flower will comfortably develop on nutrient-rich, light, permeable substrates.If loam or unsuitable sandstones prevail on the flowerbed, it is better not to test the plant and find another, more suitable place for it.
Professionals advise to improve the soil structure with a specially prepared mixture. It consists of equal parts of peat, sod land, humus or compost, wood ash, river sand.
To improve the brightness of the color of the buds, experts recommend adding a little clay, which wintered in the cold and dried out under the scorching summer sun. If there are heavy clay lands in the flower bed, they can be corrected by adding river sand, peat and humus. Also do not forget to check the acidity of the earth. At home, this is done using regular table vinegar.
Liquid is splashed onto a clot of substrate extracted from a depth of 20 cm. Emerging bubbles and hissing indicate an alkaline environment. Roses prefer to grow in a weakly acidic environment.
Therefore, it is possible to oxidize the soil with peat, wood ash or dolomite flour. But strongly acidic substrates are alkalized with lime, cement dust or ordinary old plaster.
Important!Roses planted in pots, closer to the period of transplanting to a permanent place, it is advisable to put out on the street for hardening and adaptation to more severe conditions.
After you have managed to keep the roses out of the box until spring, you can begin transplanting them into the garden. To do this, make the appropriate root system of the bush hole. Experts recommend digging a hole 50 cm deep and wide.
If in the neighborhood with your acquisition will grow roses, retreat from their trunks half a meter. In the case of miniature varieties, this distance can be reduced to 30 cm.
The bottom of the hole tedious lay out a layer of drainage. For this suitable claydite, brick chips or ordinary rubble. This procedure has a special place on the weighted substrates.
Then add the prepared soil mixture from peat, river sand, sod land and humus. It is also desirable to add two tablespoons of potassium sulfate or superphosphate to the substrate.
After the done manipulations in the pit, you can lower the sapling. Do not forget to straighten his roots well and water. Then the rose is sprinkled with earth.
Depending on the type of culture is determined by the degree of immersion of the root neck of the seedling.
If we are talking about floribunda, miniaturized and hybrid tea bushes, the place of transition of their trunk to the root is buried by 3 cm. In climbing plants, ground cover and other park specimens, including those grafted, the shoots deepen by 5-7 cm.
Important!On sunny days, young saplings in the first days after planting should be pritenyat. This will help them adapt faster and not waste their strength on the struggle for survival.
If we are talking about a pottery sample, the planting is done by the usual reloading of an earthen tuber. In this case, the roots should not be cleaned from the substrate, and the branches should not be removed from paraffin. The coating agent protects the plant from drying out and contributes to the rapid development of the kidneys.
At the final stage of planting, the crop needs to be watered and mulched once again. The following are recommended as humus: wood bark, humus, any sawdust, except coniferous trees. Then some attention needs to be paid to the stalks. Experienced rosewood growers are advised to cut them with a sharp shears at a level of 20 cm, make sure that there are 2-3 buds on each shoot.
Aftercare for the “Queen of Flowers”
With the successful rooting of roses from the boxes do not differ in the care of special requirements. For the full development of their important timely feeding, moisturizing, preparing for the winter, preventive measures to combat diseases and pests. All procedures are done as standard, as for the other "queens" of the garden.
Do not pereuvlazhnyayte beds, because it is fraught with putrefactive infections and destruction of the bushes. Fungal mycelium is often bred in a moist environment, and harmful insects also live in the habitat.
Important!Red roses are prone to fading in the sun, and therefore very soon lose their appeal. Therefore, such copies are better placed in the penumbra.
Do not let weed plants choke your flower garden. Here we are not talking about aesthetics. In fact, weeds not only spoil the look of your compound, but take away nutrients from roses. In the fight against such competitors weakened bushes are dying. You also need to regularly loosen the soil so that the roots of the bushes can gain access to oxygen.
After humidifying procedures and loosening the trunk wells, be sure to silence. This will serve as a barrier to weeds and the evaporation of moisture.
Shrubs that bloom buds need adjustment. They need to leave the central flower stalks, removing the side. And also to be removed faded buds.
At the first signs of vital activity, the pests must be treated with any insecticides ("Aktellik", "Aktara", "Bi - 58 New").
In case of defeat of roses with fungal, bacterial or viral diseases, fungicides will come to the rescue (“Maxim”, “Fufanon”, “Skor”, “Fundazol”, “Quadris”). In winter, the underground part of the plant is spuded with peat, humus or fallen leaves.
If you do everything according to the above recommendations, the roses purchased in the box will successfully take root and will delight you with lush inflorescences for years. Therefore, do not be afraid of marvelous packaging and rumors about the poor survival rate of such specimens. Avoid common mistakes in floriculture and you will succeed.
Planting and caring for roses in the garden
- Appearance: Rosaceae
- Flowering Period: June, July, August, September
- Height: 30-300cm
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, burgundy
If the lion is the king of beasts, then the rose is the unconditional queen of the garden. This plant since ancient times was considered the object of admiration and worship. No wonder that it was chosen in the symbols of love. The first mention of the rose can be found in the legends of the ancient Hindus. Legends about the beautiful flower are found in the annals of ancient Iran. According to legend, Allah himself created a charming white Rose with very sharp thorns. She was supposed to be the mistress of flowers instead of the gorgeous, but very lazy Lotus. Today, this plant can be a real decoration for your gardens, but for this you need to learn how to choose and plant a seedling, what is the right care for roses.
Choose and save seedlings
To initially ensure success in the cultivation of roses, you must purchase high-quality planting material. It is better to choose plants whose root system will be closed. When planting such a seedling, the ground around the root must be preserved.
Rose seedlings are best to choose with a closed root system: they take root more easily at the planting site and are less sick
Often in modern supermarkets you can see imported roses with a closed root system, which are implemented in advance.
Several seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf at a temperature of 0 to + 5 ° C. During storage, it is necessary to regularly monitor the condition of the substrate around the rhizome.
It should not dry out completely, but too much moisture is also harmful for it.
When to plant roses?
Spring planting of roses in the middle lane is recommended when the soil warms up to + 10 ° С. Typically, these conditions correspond to the period from late April to early May. Spring is chosen for planting standard roses.
Most of the roses recommended autumn planting. The preferred work period begins in mid-September and ends in mid-October. Earlier planting time is undesirable due to the fact that the rose can give warm fresh shoots that do not have time to get stronger and freeze in winter. Late planting is also dangerous, because before frost the plant must take root.
Most roses are planted in the fall.This is also convenient because when you buy planting material on the market, you can see the flower itself.
Determine a place to land
Place for planting roses should be sunny. In the shade of a rose, they may get bored, they stop flowering, dark spots appear on the leaves of plants, blind shoots are formed. The plant can strike powdery mildew. Choose the area that is ventilated, but has protection from strong northerly winds.
Roses adorn the garden, regardless of their location, but the plants themselves need conditions for successful growth and flowering.
Roses have no particular preferences in terms of soil. They are not as capricious as it may seem. They are suitable for any soil, except for heavy clay and light sandy. A landing site should not be located where groundwater comes close to the ground.
The process of planting roses
Planting pits need to dig such a depth and width to the roots of the plant was spacious. If the soil is fertile, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be sufficient. For clay soil with the same width of the pit in depth, 60-70 cm should be dug.
It is necessary to prepare a nutrient mixture for filling in the pit. In its composition humus or compost, rotted manure and soil. Fertilizers should not be in contact with the roots of the plant, therefore, sprinkle them with a layer of soil.
The soil or substrate, which closed the roots of the plant, must be preserved: the rose adapts faster to the new conditions of life
In the pit before planting the seedling need to pour water so that it is absorbed. If the root system of a rose is closed, it is not necessary to free the root from the ground. If the root is free, it should be cut to one-third the length and soaked in plain water or a root growth stimulator for two hours.
Shoots should also be cut:
- in polyanthus and hybrid tea roses so that 2-3 buds remain on each of the shoots,
- floribunda roses leave 3-4 buds,
- at the park roses shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm,
- in a ground cover rose, only sections of the roots are cut (renew, not shorten).
The seedling should be covered with soil so that the grafting site is about 5 cm below the ground. From the place of deepening, remove the wax, if any. Land should be tamped and watered again.
In this way, the air that could remain around the roots is removed, and the closest contact between the plant and the soil is achieved. Spud sapling can be about 10-15 cm.
The formed hill must be removed after two weeks - the time during which the sapling must take root.
Breeding the queen's garden
There are not many ways to reproduce roses. But the desire to have on the site as much as possible of these undoubtedly beautiful and diverse plants is so great that gardeners seek to master them all and to the maximum extent. Here is a list of ways to propagate a rose:
- Budding. On the bark of the plant stem, close to the ground level, a T-shaped incision is made, into which a cultured kidney is inserted, and then fixed with a film. The graft can use the advanced root system of the stock. Such an operation is simple, but requires some experience.
- Seeds. This method is used extremely rarely due to the fact that the result has to wait a long time, and there is no certainty that it will be positive. And the germination of rose seeds leaves much to be desired.
- Layering. Shrub and climbing roses propagate this way because they have long and strong stems. The shoot of the plant in the lower part is incised for 8 cm, a chip or a match is inserted into the incision. The cut part of the shoot is placed in the ground and fixed, and its free tip is tied to a peg. An established shoot is cut off from the parent bush.
- Cuttings. The method is good because the roses rooted in this way will not give wild shoots. Shank - part of a strong escape. It is cut near the leaf bud, and germinated using root-stimulants. After the appearance of the root, the rose can be planted in the ground.
The method of cutting is good to use only for reproduction of plants with long stems, which are used to create a new rose bush
Manure is a natural fertilizer and preference should be given to him, of course. The best is horse manure, which has at least six months ago. Chicken and pork manure, especially when fresh, can seriously harm the plant: it can simply burn sour and young shoots. It is badly affected by fresh manure and on the soil, because it blocks nitrogen.
Manure - natural fertilizer, therefore, the most acceptable. Preference in choosing a top dressing should be given to rotted horse manure or mullein
During the period of bud formation, it is necessary to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate at the rate of 1.1 l. on 10l of water.
At the time of active growth and development of the plant, it should be watered every 10-15 days with herbal infusion, a solution of mineral fertilizers, chicken manure or infusion mullein.
To make top dressing better perceived by the plant, it is better to apply the same mineral fertilizers in dissolved form and after the next watering. When the first half of summer is over, that is, in the second part of July, the feeding of the rose stops. The plant begins to prepare for winter.
Plants are also able to survive stress. It is in this state that they are in a period of intense heat, cold, or prolonged rains. To make roses easier to overcome the difficult times in your life, you need to spray them with zircon, epine, ecosil or sodium humate. Overfed roses give abundant greens, but bloom very sparingly.
Order watering plants
Roses need to be watered no more than once a week. If summer is hot, the frequency of watering can be doubled. The rate of watering - a bucket of warm water on each bush. It is necessary to pour water at the root, trying not to fall on the foliage. Water should penetrate the soil to a depth of at least 20-30cm. If the watering of the roses is shallow, surface roots can form that are easily damaged.
The rose in the dew is a magnificent sight, but nature decreed that the dew disappears with the first rays of the sun, otherwise its drops, like magnifiers, would increase the energy of the sun and burn the petals: water the roses at the root
If there is no one to water the roses for a long time (more than a week), the soil at the base of the plant should be covered with humus, mowed grass or tree bark. Such a measure will not only retain moisture at the roots, but also prevent the growth of weeds.
With a lack of moisture, the flowers in the plant can become shallow, but roses should not be poured: this can lead to a reduction in the supply of oxygen to the roots. As a result, the plant will turn yellow leaves. To avoid this, after watering the soil, do not forget to loosen.
Prevention, control of disease and parasites
Of course, proper fertilizing and watering are important, but the process of caring for a garden rose is not limited to this. One of the most unpleasant diseases for garden roses is powdery mildew.
Preventive measures will help to take care of the plant health in advance. Rose must be sprayed directly over the leaves with a solution of ordinary drinking soda at the rate of 40g soda per liter of water.
This should be done from spring 2-3 times in a week, as well as at the beginning of summer.
Plants, like all life on earth, can get sick. These are not random spots or traces of fertilizer. It is powdery mildew that is easier to prevent than to cure.
Aphids - a big nuisance for roses. But you can overcome it. To do this, boil a bucket of water, put into it a piece of rubbed soap and a couple of branches of wormwood, then boil for 10-15 minutes. The cooled and filtered solution of the rose is sprayed. A week later, the procedure should be repeated. If the aphid stubbornly does not want to leave the plant, you will have to use a systemic poison, for example, Aktar.
Aphids will not appear on roses at all if you plant lavender or nasturtium under them. And calendula and marigolds will help get rid of bugs.By the way, the health of roses, like people, will add onions and garlic. In their environment, the plants become more fragrant and less sick.
Spots on the leaves, cracks on the stems and the cessation of the development of buds talk about the disease. Damaged branches should be removed. Prepare an infusion of horsetail, wormwood and nettle, with which you spray the rose.