Large-leaved hydrangea - a beautiful and large shrub. Distributed in the American and East Asian territories.
This plant is fully consistent with its second name, hydrangea, which is translated from Greek as a kind of container with water. There are about 80 species of this plant.
From where it came to us, what rules of care, features of reproduction, conditions for transplantation, protection from diseases - all the information on these issues can be found in this article.
Large-leaved Hortensia was launched at the start of its victorious European march in France. But she came here in the form of a Chinese plant two centuries ago. This species is not as resistant to winter cold as a stalked hydrangea. Without shelter of large-leaved hydrangea does not overwinter. This should be considered when planting plants in Eurasia, especially the middle zone.
The history of the hydrangea leaf is very romantic. Bougainville with his first expedition around the world, being in the Indian Ocean, stopped at about. Mauritius.
Commerson had a pleasant time in conversations with the military engineer de Saint-Pierre. The latter was fascinated by a beautiful woman, Madame Poivre.
She loved to take as a gift flowers, she loved to impress with spectacular air dresses and preferred soft colors of white, blue and pink in everything.
When the scientist learned that the engineer gives flowers to this woman from an unknown shrub covered with balls of inflorescences of her favorite shades, he realized that you could make a small discovery for European countries. But God's providence did not suggest the name "Poivre."
Oddly enough, the flower was named after the sister of Prince Nassau-Siegen, the future Russian admiral. Her name is Hortensia.
Commerson was ambitious, and after having heard stories about his beautiful sister, he offered to give the European name to a Chinese decorative flower identical to the name of the princess’s distant beautiful appearance.
The name hydrangea macrophylla was derived by botanists who systematize knowledge of the flora. The name came from the meaning of the Greek words, which are translated into Russian as “water” and “vessel”. The name was given either because of moisture-loving or because of a special type of seed boxes that are visually identical to a jug.
The history of hydrangea leaves hides some more interesting facts:
- any subspecies of this plant can have the indication “French” in the title in gratitude to the fact that this particular nation introduced European countries to such a beautiful bush,
- the Japanese name of this plant is adzai (it means that this flower is similar to the sun of purple color),
- blue shades of hydrangea appear due to the plant's unique ability to accumulate aluminum from acidic soils, forming chemical compounds with it,
- similarly to the previous feature, lilac or pale beige shade of flowers is formed, which are acquired due to alkaline soils.
Rules for the care of large-leaved hydrangea
Large-leaved Hydrangea needs attention to itself, like any beautiful lady. Her visual year-round decorative effect is due to the peculiarities of large ovoid leaves located opposite each other. In spring and summer they are bright green.
Reddish shades on them are formed in the fall.
Inflorescences of flowers, similar to the shield in appearance, create a certain decoration-protection up to 20 cm. The flowers themselves reach 3 cm. They appear in the middle of summer.
The peculiarity is that the inflorescences will not fall off for the next 9 months.
Hydrangea simply requires the following conditions:
Soil mixture should be with medium or low acidity. It is best of all if parts of sod, leaf earth, sand, peat, humus will be mixed in an equal ratio. If lime is present, the plant can suffer greatly.
As for the changes in the color of the petals of flowers from pink and white to blue and even blue, depending on the reaction of the soil, it has been said above. So, if there is a pretty blue leafy garden in the garden, it means that the soil under it is acidic. Take the soil in coniferous forests, then it will become pink hydrangea.
One of its species, macrofila, loves wet soil, but it is not very resistant to frost.
Hydrangea krupnolistnaya appreciate care, which begins with its landing. Light-loving does not mean the presence of direct rays of the sun. Therefore, a little penumbra is the golden mean in which the plant desperately needs, so as not to dry and bloom profusely. Planting of large-leaved hydrangea is optimized in places where the shadow falls on the base of the bush.
For the hydrangea to become red, the soil must be acidic. But this is a relative concept. Pure red is impossible to achieve. In principle, the flowers of the plant will be dark pink.
The same method can achieve a pink-lilac shade.
Macrophillis hortensia can be obtained in blue or blue. To do this, it is necessary to add some substances to the soil.
This can be achieved with the help of iron salts or alum.
If you are thinking about how to feed the hydrangea for its flowering in two shades at once, then you can add alum from the side where there will not be a drain on the second side of the flower, if there is a slope.
Thus, turning the soil into the soil with different acidity, you will achieve flowers in both blue and pink shades to a greater or lesser extent, and you will have a great idea than to feed the plant so that it will flourish luxuriously and multicolored.
Do not feed this plant with ashes. Take better organic, make a solution of mullein. If you do not want to "mess around" with solutions of alum, iron salts, ammonium sulfate or potassium, purchase mineral-based fertilizers for plants.
Those that are meant for heather, rhododendron and azaleas will do. Shops also sell a subsubstantier. Alum potassium and potassium alumina should be dissolved in water. Take 8-10 units per 2 liters of liquid.
Calculation goes to one adult bush.
All this is possible if, when planting shoots, they are not subjected to putrefactive processes. In this case, rescues the old grandmother's way - a solution of manganese, but very weak. For no name, replace with phytosporin or fungicide.
Caring for large-leaved hydrangea involves several phases. Fertilization is carried out in order to:
- giving strength to the plant in spring (held at the beginning of rapid growth),
- increase budding, held in June,
- longer flowering and the strength to lay new buds for flowers for the next year (held in the middle of summer).
Follow some important rules. It goes on about them:
How to water the hydrangea
Limy impurities can not tolerate. Choose water for irrigation, you need only "soft". Constantly tap can not be used. The best option - rain collection. More simple - settled water. There is a risk of chlorosis.
To soften the available water from the tap, add occasionally a drop of electrolyte. Vinegar or lemon juice that is available at home is also suitable in the smallest doses. One bush needs two buckets of water at once.
But if there are short rains or mulching is carried out, it is allowed to water once a day for 30 days.
The need for pruning
This plant has a peculiarity, if cut annually, there will be no color at all. The reason is that pruning requires hydrangeas solely cosmetic or for the purpose of treatment.
If you carry it out of habit, the plant simply will not be able to bloom, because last year's shoots are the basis for new ones appearing in their sinuses. Old bushes are pruned to rejuvenate.
This is a common way to stimulate and grow young shoots. But it is forbidden to completely trim.
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Madame Emile Mouillere’ AGM
Large-flowered hydrangea and all its species need the safety of stems. So the first goal to care for her is to fight with freezing or debating shoots. Only then will flowering increments appear constantly.
For inflorescences that remain for the winter, you need to follow.
If the owners fear the occurrence of diseases under the winter shelter, then they should be removed. If there is a desire that even under a shelter the plant would delight until spring with flowers, then prepare the Bordeaux mixture. If it is treated with a bush, then it will stand brightly decorated until spring, and in spring it will be possible to remove the inflorescences.
Do it without causing damage to the shoots.
Shelter in the cold
Winter is not the best "friend" for hydrangea, especially cold. Prepare for this should be in the fall. Abundant watering in dry weather before the onset of cold weather is one of the guarantees that the cold will be well tolerated by the plant. Processing Bordeaux mixture not only helps the bush to stand until spring flowering, but also neutralizes for several months the possibility of fungi on it.
To protect the large-leaved hydrangea during the first night frosts, its spud. The height of this bush protection should reach 30 cm. From above it is covered in two layers with a plastic wrap, better than perforated. Instead of a film, agrospan will do. The branches of the bush prinajut to the ground, from the heart strewing them with dry foliage or lapnik.
Sverzu expose the box or not very heavy box. In principle, the shelter created for hydrangea is the same as for roses. The non-resistance of these garden bushes to frost can cause sad consequences, the plants simply will not bloom. Year that's for sure. Special covers or agrofibres can also save and warm the hydrangea.
At home, caring for a plant involves its reproduction as well.
The following breeding methods are available for hydrangea:
The last option can be carried out in the spring months. For this, the gardener must see and identify kidney renewals. It is by their presence that it is necessary to divide the dug up bush.
In order for the plant not to hurt and reproduction was easier to bear, the crushed coal will heal the places where the division was made. Processing stimulants rooting will help to get accustomed to each division.
If everything went well, then by the fall in new bushes shoots will appear, which by spring will become flowering branches.
Large-leaved hydrangea can reproduce with the help of layering. This way is loved by those who are afraid to break the root system. It is necessary to bend annual shoots to the ground. Deeply scratched and root-treated middle part should be under the ground cover. The top while staying above ground. In the spring it will be a steam trap, which is planted separately.
How to transplant a plant
If several bushes are planned to be planted at once, then the distance between them is not less than a meter. The first rule is sufficient volumes of pits in height, width and depth. For a small plant, these parameters are everywhere equal to 35 cm. For a larger plant and the size of the fossa increases, respectively. It is necessary to plant hydrangea only in heated soil - in spring.
Drainage to the bottom must be prepared in advance, as well as the earth mixture to further fill the fossa. Large-leaved hydrangea has uncomplicated requirements for planting. It is only necessary to remember about her love for moisture and soil composition.
To the plant was covered with flowers next year, you must immediately add minerals and organic matter.In order for the soil to be wet longer, after watering it should be mulched in a layer of 10 cm in thickness. Choose for this peat or needles. In addition, suitable sawdust. In the summer you can loosen the mulch every 1-1.5 months.
In order to keep moisture under hydrangea macrophylla longer, you can use hydrogel.
Rules of protection against parasites and diseases
Large-leaved hydrangeas suffer from the most common diseases and parasites. This is manifested by lightening and yellowing leaves.
In order to protect your darling, remember that colored hydrangea needs:
- moisture (which water is better and how to soften the tap is written above),
- increased acidity (feeding with iron salts is periodically necessary),
- attention (in case of diseases, the best way is alternate watering with potassium nitrate and iron sulfate in solutions, protects actillic from spider mites, fungicides or drugs and copper from powder mite)
- protection (for example, in the winter from rodents, so that they do not damage the bush and young shoots, do not forget to lay out a means of unnecessary "guests" for shelter).
Large-leaved hydrangea attracts with its decorative, for which he is loved by many growers.
8 most important questions about planting and caring for hydrangea
A spectacular shrub that does not require special care, blooms from mid-summer to late autumn, and after your simple manipulations can radically change its color - a great option to decorate a chic garden or monotonous country houses.
Hortensia - a flower that is firmly associated with the classic English village from an old postcard. Single-storey stone houses with low ceilings and small attic. And mandatory hydrangea bushes on either side of the front door.
In our latitudes, this wonderful plant also stuck well and managed to catch the taste of flower growers. But, despite the fact that the hydrangea has long been a frequenter of our flower gardens, many have questions about growing it.
We will try to answer the most frequent of them in our material.
1. Where to plant hydrangea?
Contradictory hydrangea categorically does not accept the stagnation of moisture, but at the same time loves moderately moist soil and soft sun. Therefore, it is better for her to find a place where she will be able to sunbathe in the morning and evening, and in the area of midday she will rest in partial shade.
Do not forget that the branches of this plant during the period of flowering become quite heavy, and therefore often bow to the ground. If you want to frame garden paths with hydrangea bushes, then you should retreat at least a meter from them. Otherwise, in the future, you will have to say goodbye to beautiful flowering branches or to set up supports, which does not always look aesthetically pleasing.
Planted plants better in spring, away from large trees. To do this, you can use cuttings, a slice of which is desirable to process a root stimulator. In addition, hydrangea reproduces beautifully by dividing the bush. Growing hydrangeas from seeds is a long and laborious process.
2. What to add to the landing hole?
For planting a tree hydrangea seedling, it is necessary to dig a hole 0.5 × 0.5 × 0.5 m in size. Of course, the diameter and depth can vary, because depend on the size of the root system of the seedling and soil characteristics.
If the land in your garden is not ideal for hydrangeas, and sand, humus or additional fertilizers will be required, the pit will have to be made deeper and wider.
For young (1-2-year-old) seedlings, a well 30 × 30 × 30 cm is quite suitable.
Hydrangea prefers soils with an acidity of 4.5-5 pH. If the soil in your garden is not sour enough, you need to add a litter of coniferous forest, rotted softwood sawdust or horse (brown) peat in the planting hole. And if the land on the plot is heavy and barren, fill each pit with a special nutrient mixture:
- 2 pieces of leafy ground
- 2 pieces of humus
- 1 part of river sand
- 1 part of peat
When planting hydrangeas in the soil in any case can not make lime or ash.
After planting, the soil around the seedling should be mulched with a 5-7 cm layer of peat, sawdust or crushed bark. This will protect the plant from dehydration, and also further acidifies the soil.
3. How to water the hydrangea?
The second name of the hydrangea is Hydrangea. And in Japan, it is sometimes romanticly called "yearning for water." It is not surprising that this beautiful flower loves watering so much.
Stability - the main principle in the care of hydrangeas, so you should not water it too plentifully, but rarely. It is better to pour about one and a half buckets of water under the root once a week.
This is usually enough to maintain normal soil moisture.
4. What and when to feed the hydrangea?
If during planting of hydrangeas a nutritious soil mixture was used, then for the first several years the plant will not need additional feeding. If the land is not fertile enough, then the hydrangea "signals" to you about it with the help of small inflorescences.
For fertilizing plants, it is possible to use preparations made by an industrial method (Agricola, Aqua, Crystalon). At the same time, it is quite simple to prepare the fertilizer yourself.
To do this, in 15 liters of water should be dissolved 10 g of urea, 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. The first feeding is recommended in early spring.
The second is after the appearance of buds (20 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate per 15 liters of water).
During the summer (once every 3-4 weeks), hydrangea can be watered with a mullein extract. You will find the recipe in our publication Korovyak - an indispensable fertilizer for the garden
5. How to deal with diseases and pests of hydrangea?
Sometimes powdery mildew appears on the leaves of the hydrangea. You can fight it with Bordeaux fluid.
On the features of the preparation and use of this popular fungicide, you can read in our article Bordeaux fluid - how to properly prepare and apply.
To combat aphids and other sucking pests, you can use drugs such as Fitoverm or Aktellik. In general, hydrangea quite successfully resists diseases and pests on their own.
6. How to trim the hydrangea?
Without pruning, hydrangeas quickly begin to look untidy. Therefore, it is desirable to form a bush since 2-3 years. This should be done in September or spring before the start of sap flow. In addition, each type of hydrangea has its own characteristics of pruning.
Have tree hydrangea remove to the ground all weak and twisted shoots, as well as three-year branches. Young growths are greatly shortened, leaving only a few buds. The weaker the shoot, the shorter it is cut.
Have panicle hydrangea in the spring, shoots growing inside the crown are removed, and young growths are shortened by 1-3 buds.
Some experienced gardeners form a stem tree based on the strongest shoots of paniculate hydrangea. It is driven out up to 70-100 cm, removing all side shoots, and then forming a spherical crown.
Have large-leaved hydrangea in September, shoots are cut a little, which prevent the plant from covering, and in the spring they carry out sanitary pruning, cutting out all frozen, broken and thickening shoots.
7. How to cover the hydrangeas for the winter?
Trees and paniculate hydrangeas usually tolerate the winter well, so it is enough just to protect their roots with mulch. Larger hydrangea is more thermophilic. Therefore, immediately after the leaves fall off, the branches gently bend down to the ground, having laid a lapnik under them.
From above also cover up with spruce branches or dry leaves. Above the bush it is better to additionally install a rigid frame covered with polyethylene, while leaving a ventilation hole.
In the spring, the protective layer is removed gradually so as not to expose the plant to additional stress as a result of temperature fluctuations.
If your site has been chosen by slugs, then before sheltering the ground around the hydrangea, you should sprinkle with mulch from pine needles or process it with special preparations (Sludge, Meta, Thunder, Bros). Otherwise, in spring the young shoots of the plant may be damaged.
8. How to change the color of hydrangea?
Not only chameleons can change color depending on the circumstances. Some plants also have this amazing ability.
If the land under a large-leaved hydrangea with pink flowers is acidified using red (top) peat, aluminum-potassium or ammonium alum, citric acid or other similar substance, its flowers will become blue.
Plants need aluminum to form the blue pigment. Usually it is sufficient in most areas, but aluminum becomes available for the plant only as a result of a chemical reaction under the influence of an acidic environment.
Thus, hydrangea can be not only a decoration of your garden, but also an indicator of the level of soil acidity.
If you add acidifiers to the soil from only one side of the plant, then one hydrangea bush will give you at the same time pink, blue and slightly lilac flowers.
With a white hydrangea, such a trick, alas, will not pass, it will remain white under any circumstances. This method will not work with a bush growing near paths, alpine hills or limestone walls, because
they strongly alkalize the soil.
No matter how much you want to experiment, do not strive to get the desired color too quickly. Excessive amounts of aluminum alum introduced into the soil can destroy the roots of the plant. Therefore, as a true artist, paint your garden gradually.
Hortensia is a beautiful, abundantly flowering plant that in just one season can turn into a spectacular shrub. And about plants that also prefer acidic soils and therefore can settle near the hydrangea, read our previous publications.
Everything you need to know about heather
Erica - we grow an unpretentious beauty
Winter-hardy rhododendrons - 10 most beautiful varieties with photos and descriptions
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophilia) - planting and care
If you look through some recommendations concerning the cultivation of hydrangeas, it becomes clear why following them leads to failure in an attempt to keep these beautiful plants in the garden. Often, describing the technology of cultivation of this culture, the authors use the common name "hydrangea", thereby making fundamental error.
Difference from other types of hydrangeas
Currently we grow in gardens five main types of hydrangeas: treelike, paniculate, petiolate, groundcover and large-leaved.
If the cultivation technology of the first four is very similar, then the care of the large-leaved, the most spectacular of all hydrangeas (other names are “broadleaf”, “macrophile”), significantly different.
Following the technology of cultivation of tree or panicle hydrangeas, owners of large-leaved will invariably be disappointed, at best, the lack of flowering next year, at worst, will get the death of the bush as a whole.
How to care for beauty macrophilia (large-leaved hydrangea)
The fact is that, unlike the tree and paniculate hydrangeas, which have inflorescences on the shoots of the current year, the broadleaf blooms on the branches left from last year.
At the ends of them in the fall laid flower buds, which next year will bloom.
That is, in the case of the death of old woody shoots gardener left without luxurious flowering hatsthat happens very often in our gardens.
What to do to save flower buds on the branches of hydrangea
For this, it is desirable to fulfill the following conditions:
- First, produce annually podzimny shelter bush, allowing to preserve the integrity of last year's shoots with the beginnings of flower buds,
- secondly exercise optimal feeding and watering, allowing hydrangeas to develop well and how to prepare for wintering,
- thirdly, conduct correct pruning plants,
- fourthly, it is necessary pick varieties, allowing to have flowering plants, even in adverse conditions.
How to make shelter for the winter
Unfortunately, large-leaved hydrangea, especially old varieties, has insufficient winter hardiness. To save the bush, on the branches of which next spring will blossom gorgeous hats of flowers, it must be protected.
To do this, at the end of October - beginning of November a bucket of peat is poured into the center of the bush, the branches are pinned gently to the ground without cutting. From above, the bush is covered with a dense spunbond, on top of which a layer of fallen leaves is poured.
A layer of waterproof material is laid over the foliage: film, roofing felt, etc.
Under this coat hydrangea usually well preserves flower buds. In April, the shelter is gradually dismantled, trying to completely remove the shelter only after the spring frosts have passed.
Important measures for the cultivation of large-leaved hydrangea (macrophiles)
No less than a successful wintering, the correctly conducted agrotechnical measures affect the flowering of the large-leaved hydrangea.
Since this plant prefers acidic soils, the landing pit is filled with a mixture of compost, sand and top peat, thoroughly watered and mulched with a mixture of sour peat and compost.
An essential condition for the good development of the plant and its lush flowering is regular watering, since hydrangea does not tolerate insufficient moisture. Drought may cause marginal leaf burn, the general inhibition of the plant until death.
In the spring, a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and the necessary trace elements is mandatory to be applied to the near-stem circle. If you do not do this, you can hardly count on abundant flowering.
It is convenient to use special mixtures of nutrients designed specifically for the nutrition of hydrangeas, they gently acidify the soil, creating favorable conditions for the life of the bush.
Excellent proven fertilizer companies "Pokon", "Green Bool", "ECOstyle".
When feeding necessarily you need to consider the color of your hydrangea - pink or blue, because fertilizer blends can be tailored to a particular shade. If you want to change the pink color to blue, use a mixture with the inclusion of aluminum or iron alum. On the contrary, the transformation of blue hydrangea to pink, is achieved by slight alkalization of the soil.
In the summer, feeding with potassium and phosphorus is repeated 1-2 times, not including nitrogen in the mixture, in order to create optimal conditions for the plant to prepare for wintering.
How to cut a large-leaved hydrangea
In this case, you can say: almost nothing.
It is important to remember: a macrophile, unlike a tree and paniculate, Do not prune! The exception is spring sanitary, very slight thinning of the bush.
Only broken, weak, thickening shoots are removed. It is useful to remind once again that this type of hydrangea blooms on last year's lignified shoots, which is why it is so important to keep them intact.
What is remarkable new varieties of hydrangeas
If someone constantly has problems with overwintering macrophiles, do not be upset. The selection of this wonderful plant has led to the emergence of a new series of hydrangeas, blooming on the shoots like last year, and (hooray!) this year. They are called remontant. Such plants are not afraid of frozen tips of the shoots, they will flourish successfully on young stems.
Among the particularly successful variety-repairing hydrangeas, “Endless Summer” can be noted, many varieties of which hibernate relatively well, and in the case of frosting, thrive on newly regrown stems.
The “You & Me” series has even greater frost resistance, which not only endures the winter perfectly, but also pleases gardeners with luxurious terry flowers.
With the advent of these wonderful varieties, most lovers of hydrangeas have a real opportunity to decorate the garden with lush hats of flowering plants.
Kocheva Lyudmila Alekseevna, Russia, Moscow.
Authors of the photo: voros-olga56, gloria.ruda, wirose08.
Reproduction of hydrangea macrophylla
Reproduction of large-leaved hydrangea in Belarus
Reproduction of hydrangea: seeds, cuttings, layering, offspring, dividing the bush.
We multiply large-leaved hydrangea seeds
Seeds of large-leaved hydrangea do not require preplant preparation, so they can be sown immediately in boxes for seedlings. In the soil, the seeds of hydrangea cobbles should not be embedded. After sowing, cover the box with glass or plastic wrap.
The soil for planting hydrangea must be wet. The shoots of large-leaved hydrangea will appear in about 20 days. Seedlings are growing for 2 years, for 3 years they can be planted in a permanent place in our garden.
By this time, our seedlings should be 30-40 cm tall.
Only natural large-leaved hydrangea reproduces well with seeds, and the varieties developed by breeders lose their acquired decorative qualities with this method of reproduction.
Reproduction of hydrangea with large-leaved green cuttings
This method of breeding hydrangeas is the most common. It is best to engage in green cutting at the moment when the buds appear, this is the end of June or mid-July.
The green stem of a large hydrangea is a leafy part of the stem with one or more buds. Cut the cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea from young plants. If the old bushes, then we must first carry out anti-aging pruning.
Better root cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea root from lateral shoots (which grew on the growth of last year). At the bottom of the crown, but it should be well lit. The cuttings have quite developed large buds.
We cut off the shoots in the early morning, at this time all the plant's tissues are still filled with moisture and then in the process of further work with cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea, make sure that they do not dry out.
Cut off the shoots immediately put into the water in the shade and as soon as possible proceed to cutting the cuttings. At the shoot we cut off the green tip with a bud, as it is not suitable for cutting.
The remaining green part of the shoot is divided into several parts with 2 pairs of leaves.
After that, the lower leaves from the cutting are removed, and the upper ones are shortened by half and carefully put the cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea in a solution of some root growth stimulator so that the leaves of large-leaved hydrangea do not get into the solution.
It can be: root, heteroauxin or zircon. The solution is made strictly according to the instructions and we maintain cuttings in it for 2 hours, preferably in a dark place.
If you do not have at hand any root-forming agent, you can prepare such a solution: in one glass of water dissolve 1 teaspoon of honey.
Honey contributes to the rapid formation of callus thickening at the end of the cutting, from which the roots grow. Now you can begin to plant the prepared cuttings.
We plant them in advance prepared mixture of peat and sand (2: 1), having previously moistened it.
For better rooting, you can cover the cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea banks and a couple of times a week (in the absence of rain), pour them directly over the banks. When the weather is hot and dry it is desirable to water the cuttings every day. Cutlets of large-leaved hydrangea, which you did not cover, preferably once or twice a day.
After 30 days (in the second half of August), the rooting of the cuttings takes place and new leaves appear on them.To remove banks, but it will be better to cover the large-leaved hydrangea saplings with several layers of any covering material (spanbond) so that early autumn frosts do not damage our still very young plants.
For the winter in Belarus, large-leaved hydrangea saplings should be well covered.
We fill the saplings with fallen leaves, pine needle, then set a low frame over them and cover it with a covering material.
For better snow retention, it is still possible to add a coniferous spruce leaf from above. In the spring of already rooted cuttings of large-leaved hydrangea are planted on the garden bed for further growing.
We plant the seedlings for a permanent place when they are old enough.
Reproduction of hydrangea with macrophyllae layering
It is best to start the reproduction of hydrangeas with layering in Belarus in early spring (March) even before bud break. First we dig up the soil around the bush, then level it well.
We make radial grooves with a depth of 2 cm and stack them one by one from the lower part of the bush.
In order to not straighten the branches of large-leaved hydrangea, we pin them with specially made rogatas and sprinkle them lightly with earth.
For a quicker appearance of the roots, you can apply the following technique: on the layering before the first well-developed kidney, we make a waist of 2-3 soft turns from a soft soft wire;
By the end of the summer, several young shoots should form on each of our layers. When they reach a height of 15-20 cm, they must be folded, then every 7-10 days the hilling is repeated. And we do this until the height of the mound is 20-25 cm. In October, we separate the cuttings and separate the formed shoots from each other.
Their height by this time should be about 50 cm. We plant the seedlings, and in the spring we plant them on the garden bed. And only a year later they will be ready for planting at a permanent place.
Reproduction of hydrangea with large leaves
Growth hydrangea also reproduces well. This method of breeding hydrangeas requires a lot of attention and caution.
To this end, we remove the top layer of soil in the fall and very carefully, so as not to damage the roots of the mother bush, separate the shoots from the shoots.
Separated shoots of large-leaved hydrangea are planted in the garden and leave them there for growing, depending on the condition of the seedling, for one or two years.
Transplant and share a large-leaved hydrangea bush
This method of reproduction is used mainly for transplantation of large-leaved hydrangea. It can be used for all types of large-leaved hydrangeas. Prescription of hydrangeas should be dealt with in early spring.
Pre-bush plentifully watered, then dig out and carefully wash the roots of the soil. Divide the bush into several parts and immediately plant delenki to a permanent place, cutting the ends of the shoots and roots. If you bought a large-leaved hydrangea sapling in the fall, then it is just for you.
We cut off all the leaves on a seedling, prune undripe green shoots and remove it from the container. It is necessary to bury the hydrangeas in the prepared trench. We make a trench of such size that it is possible to put a seedling in it obliquely, with the condition that the root ball will be lower and the branches higher. First of all, we fall asleep the roots of a hydrangea sapling with earth and compact it well.
With a fan, we lay out all the branches of the seedling and also fill them with earth. So that our sapling of hydrangea does not freeze in the winter in Belarus, we cover it from above with another layer of peat or humus. As soon as the spring sun warms the earth, on the branches of our buried hydrangea buds will grow.
At first, new shoots of large-leaved hydrangea will be powered by a common root system, and in the future they will form their own roots.
At the end of summer, prikopan thus, we dig out a bush of a hydrangea and we separate the formed new escapes with own root system.
By dug a single plant, we can get a lot of new seedlings with well developed own roots.
Buy large hydrangea in Belarus for planting in open ground from March in 2015.
Date: Monday, March 30, 2015
6 most important questions about growing hydrangea
With regular and proper care, which is fairly simple, the hydrangea is a spectacularly flowering shrub with large balls or panicles of inflorescences. If your hydrangea refuses to bloom, it means that you are somewhere wrong with the growing conditions.
In the material you will find detailed answers to the most popular questions about the care of hydrangeas in the garden and at home.
1. How and where to plant the hydrangea?
Proper cultivation of hydrangea in the open field begins with the choice of its "place of residence".
Planting most varieties of hydrangea is best in early spring. An exception is made only for species with a well-developed root system (paniculate, tree hydrangeas), which must be planted in early September.
The site should be protected from the wind and sufficiently lit, but, if possible, without constant access to direct sunlight, especially in the middle of the day. Also, make sure that there are no other large plant dominants nearby - hydrangea can form a uniformly developed and branched beautiful bush only with a single planting.
After the rain, tall shoots of hydrangeas with large balls of inflorescences get wet and wilted, so do not plant bushes close to narrow paths so that they do not turn out to be blocked.
The soil for hydrangea should be loose (the plant does not tolerate stagnant water), fertile, slightly or medium acid. Suitable, for example, a mixture of leaf and sod land, sand and peat in equal parts. If you have enough alkaline soils on the plot, hydrangea will suffer from chlorosis, so add some peat or conifer sawdust to the planting hole in advance.
The root neck of the plant after planting should be at ground level. Planted hydrangea is plentifully watered, and the near-stem circle is mulched with a layer of sawdust or peat 5-7 cm thick.
2. How to water the hydrangea?
It is no coincidence that European systematic botanists gave the plant the name Hydrangea, which is translated from Greek as a “vessel with water”. Hortensia is a notable water-bread and simply does not tolerate drying out of the soil, although it is also contraindicated for stagnant moisture. The soil should always be moderately wet throughout the depth of the roots.
The best way out will be regular, fairly abundant watering of hydrangeas - for the average summer of our middle zone it is about two buckets for each adult bush once a week. If the weather is more arid, double the watering frequency.
Also, hydrangeas are not very fond of sharp fluctuations in the level of humidity - for example, rare but very abundant watering during drought.
3. When and how to fertilize the hydrangea?
Top dressing of hydrangea is also necessary if you want to admire the magnificent flowering bushes.
In the spring, after the end of frosts, feed the hydrangea with any specialized industrial complex fertilizer (Flower Paradise, Bona Forte, Pokon, Agricola Aqua). A independently prepared mixture of 30-40 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of ammonium sulfate or urea and 30-35 g of potassium sulfate will also work.
If you do not live in the warmest climate, to enhance the resistance of plants, they can be sprayed on young foliage with Epin-extra or Zircon.
The second fertilizer application for hydrangea is planned for the period of the beginning of budding - 60-80 g of superphosphate + 40-45 g of potassium sulfate.
At the end of summer or beginning of autumn, please each bush of the plant 15-20 kg of compost or rotted manure.
4. How to change the color of hydrangea?
Large-leaved hydrangea is loved by gardeners and for one more amazing quality - it is a real “chameleon”! That is, you can independently change the color of the inflorescences on your bush from pink to blue or vice versa (the first, by the way, is much simpler).
But if you grow a white variety of large-leaved hydrangea, then it will “refuse” to change color, no matter how hard you persuade! Only pink and blue hydrangeas can be “repainted”.
Do not believe? We reveal the secret. To obtain blue colors, the main factors are acidic soil, available aluminum salts (they are responsible for the formation of blue pigment) and the minimum phosphorus content (it binds aluminum) in the soil. For pink - respectively, neutral or alkaline soil and the inaccessibility of aluminum salts.
- Ensure that the acidity of the soil is at least pH 6 (ideally 6-6.2).
- If the soil is more acidic, several times a year make neutralizing additives - lime powder, chalk, dolomite flour, ground limestone.
- Use fertilizers with a relatively high content of phosphorus and nitrogen and low potassium levels (for example, ammonium monophosphate).
- If it is not possible to neutralize the pH or there are many plants on the site that love acidic soils, grow pink hydrangeas in the garden, but in large pots. And do not add components containing Al (clay, expanded clay) to the soil for colors.
- In water for irrigation, add a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Make sure that the acidity of the soil does not exceed pH 5.5.
- If the soil is more alkaline, sour it with additives of red peat, coniferous bark, citric acid.
- Add aluminum-containing additives to the substrate, for example, clay, aluminum sulphate.
- Do not plant bushes near concrete paths, alpine hills or limestone walls - they strongly alkalify the soil.
- Use fertilizers that are low in phosphorus, high in potassium, and moderate in nitrogen (azophoska, nitrophoska, ecofosca). Do not use superphosphate and bone meal.
- Make sure that the water for irrigation does not add calcium to the soil - the pH of the water should not be higher than 5.6.
- In water for irrigation, add a weak solution of ammonium-potassium alum or iron sulfate.
Moreover, you can even get multi-colored "balls" on one bush! To do this, just different sides of it, fertilize and water with different substances, or experiment with only one side.
Most likely, your bush and so it will turn out to be multicolored, since in the open field it is very difficult to ensure that absolutely all parts of the plant receive applied substances in the same quantities and at the same time - so get ready to watch the whole range of shades - from gently pink to purple or blue.
Do not overdo it with artificially increasing soil pH. At values above 6.5, there is a high risk of iron deficiency and chlorosis of plants.
5. When and how to trim the hydrangea?
Do I need to trim the hydrangea? Strictly speaking, this procedure is not vital for her, the plant is quite viable and without pruning. However, gardeners who prefer the well-groomed appearance of their plot and well-formed bushes will not agree with us and strongly recommend not to neglect this procedure.
Up to 2-3 years, the young bush can not touch, then have to deal with its molding.
This is done annually in the spring, before the start of active sap flow, and different types of hydrangeas have their own characteristics of trimming.
- For large-leaved hydrangea, sanitary trimming is sufficient when all frozen, broken and thickening shoots are removed.
- In tree hydrangea, all weak and crooked shoots are removed to the base, as well as three-year-old (and older) branches. Young growths of the current year are greatly shortened, leaving only a few buds. The weaker the shoot, the shorter it is cut.
- Pruning hydrangea paniculata more gentle than in the previous case.It removes shoots growing inside the crown, and young growths shorten to 1-3 pairs of buds.
Also, all hydrangeas will have a superfluous autumn “lightweight” pruning with the removal of dried inflorescences and overgrown shoots, which in winter under the snow can simply break off.
6. Growing hydrangeas in a pot - what could be the difficulty?
If you do not have a garden plot, and you want to admire the blooming hydrangea, it is quite possible to grow it at home.
If you have read all the above material, you should have no difficulties. Caring for hydrangea in the apartment does not differ much from that in the open field.
Indoor hydrangea, there are also many varieties, but usually choose large-leaved hydrangea.
And at home, her bushes grow more compact, but with more intensely colored flowers (claret-red, bright blue, rich cream, etc.).
With good care, hydrangea can reach a meter in height and delight you with buds up to 30 cm in diameter, so she will need a large pot, 8-15 liters in volume.
As a soil, use a mixture of equal parts of garden soil, peat and semisheated coniferous litter.
Of the conditions, the hydrangea in the apartment will prefer a bright, not hot place without direct sunlight, fresh, fairly humid air without drafts, the absence of sudden temperature drops and active watering with soft settled water at room temperature. In the summer, 5-6 times with an interval of 2 weeks should be fed with mineral fertilizer (for example, 3 g of potassium sulfate + 4 g of superphosphate + 3 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 l of water).
The most important thing in caring for room hydrangea is handling it during the cold season. Even indoors, hydrangea remains a deciduous shrub and leaves foliage for the winter.
After that, it is necessary to ensure peace - tie up shoots and move the pot to a darkened cool place (not forgetting, however, to regularly moisten the soil).
In February-March, hydrangea is again exposed to the usual conditions and begin regular maintenance.
Hortensia is a great option for decorating both a standard city apartment and a luxurious garden plot or a modest cottage. Do not forget about the simple rules of regular care, and she will definitely respond with lush flowering.
Adding an article to a new collection
A spectacular shrub that does not require special care, blooms from mid-summer to late autumn, and after your simple manipulations can radically change its color - a great option to decorate a chic garden or monotonous country houses.
Hortensia - a flower that is firmly associated with the classic English village from an old postcard. Single-storey stone houses with low ceilings and small attic. And mandatory hydrangea bushes on either side of the front door. In our latitudes, this wonderful plant also stuck well and managed to catch the taste of flower growers. But, despite the fact that the hydrangea has long been a frequenter of our flower gardens, many have questions about growing it. We will try to answer the most frequent of them in our material.
Top dressing and watering
All hydrangeas, and macrophils are not an exception, they need intensive nutrition. Organic fertilizers (compost, rotted manure) are applied to the root zone in a thick layer, combining with liquid mineral fertilizers containing all the necessary elements: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus plus trace elements.
With good nutrition, macrophiles bloom magnificently and long. Photo author
Now special fertilizers for hydrangeas have appeared on sale, which are recommended to be applied in a dry form (a glass on a plant), slightly sealing them in the ground. Such a portion is enough (according to the manufacturers) for the whole season.With an assortment of dressings for these ornamental plants, you can find in our market by going to the section Fertilizer for Hydrangeas.
With a lack of precipitation, hydrangeas need watering. Usually watered at the rate of 1–2 buckets of water per bush. It is possible to add humates or green fertilizer diluted in a ratio of 1:10 (fermented nettle solution, dandelions, mowed grass) in the irrigation water. All hydrangeas respond very well to watering with acidified water (1 tbsp. Spoon of citric acid per bucket of water). In addition, you can use special liquid acidulants (for example, phytokislin) that are commercially available, using them strictly according to the instructions.
Summer is the time when magnificent flowering hydrangeas appear in the garden centers, which are brought to us from European nurseries. The choice of varieties that you would like to plant in your garden, should be approached with skill, and not just guided by the impulse "like it and everything!" . From nameless plants "without a genus, without a tribe" should be immediately abandoned.
Summer is the time when magnificent blooming hydrangeas appear in the garden centers. Photo author
Now there is a whole line of remontant varieties of large-leaved hydrangea, which bloom not only on last year's shoots, but also on the shoots of the current year. Usually remontant varieties are labeled RE (Re-blooming or re-blooming) Every blooming (blooming all the time), Persistent (constantly blooming). For more information about such varieties you can read in the publication of our site Winter-resistant large-leaved hydrangeas: will they bloom with us?
For successful cultivation of large-leaved hydrangeas in your garden you should correctly plant them: choose a suitable place, fill the landing pit, provide “after-sales service”. Place for planting should be sufficiently lit, in the partial shade of hydrangea bloom badly. It is desirable that powerful trees and bushes do not grow nearby, and hydrangeas are planted at some distance from buildings and fences.
Place for planting should be sufficiently lit, in the partial shade of hydrangea bloom badly. Photo author
The landing pit is filled with a fertile substrate: leaf earth, compost, peat. Peat when planting hydrangeas is especially important, as it has an acid reaction and a high moisture capacity, which is important for the macrophil - “water-holders”. Even in the landing pit is not bad to sketch spruce or pine leaf litter.
The purchased plant is removed from the pot and soaked for a couple of hours in a bucket of water. Then the root ball, stuffed with all sorts of granules of growth stimulants, vermiculite and other things, should be a little tousled. During the time that the hydrangea was sitting in a container, its roots are quite intertwined.
The purchased plant is removed from the pot and soaked for a couple of hours in a bucket of water.
A lump with tightly woven roots must be vertically incised with a sharp knife in several places. This, firstly, will stimulate the growth of new suction roots and, secondly, will force the capricious plant to develop a new space. Otherwise, it will remain sitting within its greenhouse coma, which at first will supply it with the most necessary, and will not develop.
Superphosphate or bone meal should be added to the planting pit as a source of phosphorus, potash fertilizer (handful). I draw your attention that it is absolutely impossible to use wood ash and fertilizers containing chlorine when planting hydrangeas of any kind.
You can choose a large-leaved hydrangea for your garden right now, by looking at a selection of Hydrangeas with large leaves.
Large-leaved hydrangea - plant description
Initially, the predecessor of the large-leaved hydrangea fell into the gardens of Europe straight from Japan and a little later, thanks to the breeders from France, the heroine of the article appeared. This variety is less frost-resistant than other varieties, but it is distinguished by lush flowering and foliage color changing during the season. All summer, the huge leaves remain green, and towards the end of the warm pores they begin to twitch with a slight red bloom.
Brush inflorescences are composed of flowers in diameter exceeding 3 cm, and the inflorescences themselves reach about 18 cm.
Depending on the variety, large-leaved hydrangea can have different shades of colors:
Shrubs bloom quite early, approximately after the May holidays. After the flowering period has passed, the inflorescences do not fly around, but only their color changes to greenish. So this plant is decorative and can decorate the garden throughout the spring and summer.
But it is important to remember that you need to purchase seedlings from reliable suppliers or in nurseries in order to avoid falsification. Hydrangea is popular and the demand for it is quite high.
Site preparation and soil
It is important to properly prepare the soil and place for planting. Then from the very beginning the shrub will develop properly, which will strengthen the hydrangea's immune system.
Although the beautiful hydrangea loves a bright light, you should not indulge this whim. It is best to equip it in the penumbra.
Well, if the base of the plant will be shaded, but the crown will be nourished by the sun.
It is important to follow some rules when landing:
- shrub can not be planted close to the trees, as it pulls a lot of moisture from the soil,
- if the base of the hydrangea is under the sun, then the plant will suffer because the ground dries out strongly,
- in the shade inflorescences become smaller
- shrub flowering period in the shade shorter.
The soil should be chosen in accordance with the following recommendations:
- Soil should be of medium or low acidity. The shrub can "pepper" because of the violation of acidity. Depending on what color the petals are painted in, you can understand how acidic the soil is. Blue color indicates increased, and pink flowers tell that alkalinity is too small.
- The soil should be soft and saturated with organic fertilizers.
Recipe soil mixture for hydrangea:
- land from the rotted last year's foliage - 1 part,
- fine sand - ½ part
- coarse sand - ½ parts
- humus or compost - 1 part,
- cow rotted manure - 1 part.
All components must be thoroughly mixed and loosened.
How and when to plant?
Planting hydrangea is best in late spring, after the frosts have passed.
Autumn planting is also possible, but only in areas with warm winters. After the plant is planted in the spring, during the summer it manages to get good nutrition, form a reserve for the winter and get stronger.
It is best to dig a landing hole for a plant a week before planting a hydrangea. The width of the pit - 50 cm, depth - 45 cm.
- After the pit is dug, it is laid out with a film and a mixture is laid in it, in which the bush will grow.
- After laying the soil, it should be well shed and mixed. After watering and evaporation of moisture, it will settle and it will become clear how much land still needs to be added.
- Before planting, the film along with the ground is removed from the pit.
- The bottom is covered with fine sand, then the sand of a larger fraction is laid out, then a layer of the prepared mixture and only after that the rhizome can be dropped there.
- It should be filled with the remaining soil. Above the ground, be sure to isolate with a layer of mulch of a few centimeters.
Watering and feeding
- Watering. Since the plant does not like lime, water for irrigation is better to take a soft, ideally, rain. To soften water from a water supply system or a well, you can add a little lemon juice or vinegar. Hortensia is a big lover of water treatments, so you need to make sure that the soil is always hydrated.
- If the weather is dry and sunny, then at dawn or in the evening you can roll the branches with a hose.
It is best to feed the hydrangea on the following schedule.
- in early spring, before the formation of shoots, the earth should be shed with a solution of biofungicides,
- in early May organic is introduced,
- in June should be feeding minerals,
- in the summer organic is added again.
It is important to remember that you can not feed hydrangeas with ashes!
Since the color of flowers can vary depending on the acidity of the soil, using a special technique, you can get flowers of different colors on one branch. To do this, on one side of the hydrangea bush alum and iron salts are added, and on the other, simple organic matter. The result will be impressive.
Pruning of large-leaved hydrangea should take place according to the following rules:
- only sanitary pruning,
- in old bushes only old shoots are cut off.
If the shrub is subjected to regular pruning, then we can not wait for the beginning of flowering, as the shoots, on which the flower stalks develop, grow from last year's branches.
It is best to conduct pruning in the autumn months, because the diseased branches can serve as a source of pathogenic microflora under winter shelter.
Caring for hydrangea in the fall and winter is as follows:
- in the early autumn it is worthwhile to carry out sanitary pruning,
- after that, carefully rake an old layer of mulch around the bush,
- organic fertilizer is applied,
- a few days later a layer of coarse sand is laid around the trunk,
- then a fresh layer of mulch is placed (if sawdust is used, it must be ripe, that is, produced a few years ago, otherwise wood resins will damage the soil),
- further around the trunk, you can lay a layer of fir paws.
It is important to remember that the hydrangea, which is properly retired, will delight the whole season with flowering next year.
Since the variety in question is afraid of frost, it is worthwhile to build a safe shelter for large-leaved hydrangea for the winter:
- branches should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture,
- in the warm days of autumn it is plentiful to water the bush,
- before the frosts around the plant, an additional layer of land of about 30 cm is piled on top of the spruce feet,
- further, the branches of the hydrangea bend down to the ground and straw or hay is laid on top (it is better not to use the fallen leaves, because pathogens can well survive the winter in warmth and comfort together with it),
- A cardboard box or a wooden box is placed on top of such a structure,
- from above strengthens special fabric for plant conservation.
Protection against diseases and pests
Large-leaved hydrangea is susceptible to the attack of harmful microbes, fungi and other diseases. Therefore, at the first signs of the disease should immediately take action.
- If the leaves begin to lighten, but the veinlets remain green, it means that the alkalinity of the soil is increased and the development of chlorosis has begun. An urgent need to take a set of measures to reduce the acidity of the soil and make iron salts.
- If a spiderweb appeared on the leaves on the back side and they began to dry, then this means that the plant devours the spider mite. This happens when the plant lacks moisture. It means that it is worth increasing the watering, daily spraying the plant and carrying out a number of procedures for the treatment of the drug against the pest.
- If oily spots began to appear on the leaves, and then the leaves began to turn yellow, then these are signs of the appearance of downy powdery mildew. Here biofungicides and drugs with copper will help.
Large-leaved hydrangea with extremely good care is extremely rare, but if the plant is not followed, then there is a real risk of its death!
The large-leaved hydrangea is undoubtedly a true decoration of the garden collection.But before settling it near your house, you should think about whether there is enough time and effort to thoroughly carry out procedures that will ensure her comfortable growth.
The basics of proper care for large-leaved hydrangea
The real queen of the garden, the magnificent decoration and the pride of every self-respecting gardener is the large-leaved hydrangea. From this article you will learn all about how to grow such a beauty in your garden and get the most vivid and abundant flowering.
Description of the species
Large-leaved hydrangea - one of the most spectacular and ornamental deciduous shrubs from 80 types of hydrangeas growing all over the world. Translated from the Greek, Hydrangea macrophylla means “vessel with water”, which means that it loves watering and moist soil very much, and it is best rooted in regions with high annual precipitation. Having appeared in Europe at the end of the 19th century, it successfully acclimatized and settled in aristocratic gardens.
Hydrangea - non-frost resistant shrub and requires mandatory shelter for the winter. Maintains air temperatures in winter -12. -15 ° С, and some species up to -18 ° С. In appearance, this bush is spherical, reaching 2-3 m in height in a warm climate and 0.7-1.5 m in a cold one.
Large-leaved hydrangea is also called broadleaved due to ovoid bright green shiny leaves, reaching 20 cm in length, with large triangular teeth along the edges.
Flowers of this plant up to 3 cm in size, from pale pink to lilac and blue color, are collected in large clusters with a diameter of 15-20 cm. The color of flowers directly depends on the level of soil acidity. So, on slightly acidic soil flowers are pink, purple and even red, and on acidic - blue. Shrub blossoms in July and August. You can grow large-leaved hydrangea as a greenhouse, garden crop or as a houseplant. Ideal for hedges, but as a single plant also looks great.
The choice of lighting
It is best tolerated planting large-leaved hydrangea in the spring on a cool and overcast day. The perfect place to be lit by the sun not less than 6 hours per day in the morning and in the evening. Dining summer rays can dry out the soil, and in the shade the bush blooms much later and the flowering is not abundant. It is not recommended to plant hydrangea under a tree, as the latter will take all the moisture from the soil itself.
What kind of soil does a flower like?
The plant is not the most capricious and can grow in different conditions, even on clay and podzolized earth. But you will see a beautiful bush with lush bright flowering only on well-drained, high-acidity fertilized with humus. It is important to avoid elevated levels of lime and a highly alkaline soil, as this causes the plant to become sick with chlorosis.
Rules for planting large-leaved shrubs
Planting is carried out in the spring after warming the soil and establishing warm weather without the risk of frost. If several bushes are planted, then the minimum distance between them should be 1 m.
Best for landing fit 2-3 year old sapling. The optimum soil for planting will be a mixture of peat, turf, leaf soil and sand in equal quantities. The size of the pit for planting directly depends on the overall quality of the garden soil. If it is sour and rich in fertilizers, then 35х35х35 pits are sufficient, and if it is loamy and poor, then at least 60 cm on both sides and inwards. If the soil is sufficiently wet or the groundwater level is high, then drainage from gravel, claydite or broken brick must be laid on the bottom. When planting in dry soil a great helper in the future care will be a hydrogel, which is placed on the bottom of the pit in the calculation of 1 tbsp. l on the pit.
The next stage will be a rash of specially prepared ground composition. For pink and red hydrangeas, the pH should be between 6.0 and 6.2.When choosing a blue flowering acidity is reduced to 5.0-5.5 pH, and add aluminum sulfate to the soil.
In the pit, the roots are straightened so that the root collar remains at ground level. A planted bush is watered with 15-20 liters of water and is mulched with a thickness of up to 10 cm. Sawdust, tree bark or needles are perfect for this.
Basic rules of care
What is important is not only the correct planting of large-leaved hydrangea, but also timely care and attention.
Hortensia is a shrub that will not survive in dry soils without sufficient moisture. So, you need to pour at least 2 buckets of water once a week. The only exception is densely mulched soil around the bush or heavy rain. Water for irrigation should be soft, ideally rainwater. Suitable and tap water, but only defended, with the addition of lemon juice or vinegar in order to avoid chlorosis of the plant.
There are several feeding stages for growing strong, strong plants with lush flowering:
- in the spring at the beginning of the growing season they are fertilized with a solution of mullein or other organic matter,
- in June, before budding, for lush and vivid flowering,
- at the end of summer for the proper formation of the kidneys for the next year.
In the first year after planting, you can feed the sapling with a solution of potassium permanganate, so that rot on roots and shoots does not appear.
As already known, the introduction of some fertilizers directly affects the color of the petals of hydrangea. Iron salts or alum crystals affect the blueing of the hydrangea. For one bush, 8-10 potassium alumina or ammonium-potassium alum is diluted in two liters of water and watered 2 times a month. You can buy in specialized flower shops compositions for the blueing of the hydrangea.
For greater decoration, you can water this mixture only on one side of the plant, then the caps of flower buds will be pink and blue on one bush. Universal mineral fertilizers for rhododendrons and azaleas, or acidic fertilizers such as ammonium and potassium sulphates, are also suitable.
Buds before flowering can be sprayed with gibberellin solution at the rate of 50 ml per 1 l of water. It promotes early flowering and long abundant blooms.
How to form the crown of a plant
The main mistake of many gardeners is the complete cutting of large-leaved hydrangea! This shrub cannot be cut, since you will not wait for flowering. In this species, flower buds are laid on the shoots of last year, and during the winter it is important to keep them from frost and diaper rash.
In the fall, only the inflorescences of this year are cut so that they do not become the dwelling of unnecessary hydrangea pests or a source of disease. And in the spring, after full disclosure, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing broken branches and several old shoots to stimulate the growth of new ones.
Preparing for the winter
Do not wait for the first frost to start cover the plant.
- Already in mid-September, we cut off all the leaves, except for the top ones, which protect flowering buds.
- We wrap the bush in 2 layers of burlap or lutrasil.
- After the beginning of the constant small frosts we bind the bush, bend down to the ground on the pre-laid lapnik or sawdust. The substrate springs and does not allow the shoots to break under the weight of snow.
- From above we fall asleep with leaves or needles, we cover again with lapnik branches so that the snow lasts longer.
This is the most reliable shelter that will protect even from severe frosts. In the spring, you should not hurry with the disclosure, as unexpected, even late spring frosts can destroy the plant.
Difficulties in growing
Even experienced gardeners will tell you that the large-leaved hydrangea is spoiled, and many face almost the same growing problems:
- after buying a large hydrangea in a pot, it is important to plant as soon as possible in the open ground so that the plant does not die,
- when transplanting from a pot to a garden, the soil and the root system cannot be disturbed, since all the forces will later be spent on flowering, and the root system will disappear,
- first, after planting, fertilize the plant as often as possible with a further decrease in top dressing, as it is used to greenhouse conditions and it is difficult for it to adapt to a new substrate and independently extract nutrients from it,
- wrong choice of site for planting, for example, strongly lit during the whole day, and as a result - burning of leaves and dry soil,
- with excessive watering of hydrangeas, rotting of the roots and stems is possible.
Botanical features of large-leaved hydrangea
Large-leaved hydrangeaor garden (Hydrangea macrophylla) - highly decorative and fast-growing type of hydrangeas originally from Japan and China. The maximum height in a region with harsh winters is limited to 1-2 m. In this species, erect shoots, ovate, large, bright green leaves and flat, wide cusps of inflorescences with a diameter of up to 15 cm and a height of up to 10 cm, consisting of fruitful purple or blue and large pink, with uneven bright strokes, reaching up to 3.5 cm in diameter, fruitless flowers.
Hydrangea inflorescences, which bloom starts in July, retain a high decorative effect until the next spring: they dry up, but still remain very attractive.
Large-leaved hydrangeas, fashion for which came to us from the West, are so captivating in tubs and pots, so unique in their beauty of their almost spherical dense inflorescences and bright foliage - the bushes are still whimsical and unsuitable for the harsh climate. But this does not prevent them from growing even in regions with severe winters.
And although these beauties need special care and protection for the winter, their beauty, nevertheless, has no equal. It doesn’t matter whether you decided to transplant potted hydrangea into the garden or originally purchased a garden plant - the principles of growing and caring for shrubs will still be the same. The main difficulty in growing large-leaved hydrangeas is related to the need to preserve last year's shoots, on which this type of hydrangea blooms, during a long and harsh winter, not only without freezing, but also without drying out.
Criteria for choosing a hydrangea garden, or large-leaved
The right choice of variety is a key success factor in growing large-leaved hydrangeas. This plant has more winter-hardy and less hardy varieties that can only winter indoors. The stated frost resistance of this type of hydrangea - up to -18 ° C, is characteristic only for varieties adapted to the harsh climate and mainly - modern.
Choosing hydrangeas, you should give preference to plants not by the degree of their decorativeness, but by the factor of adaptation to your climate - by plants of local garden centers and nurseries. Imported large-leaved hydrangeas are more likely to cause frustration.
Be sure to check if the variety has been tested in your area or whether it is grown in a climate similar to yours. When choosing a variety, it is worth paying attention to another very important factor: remontant or ordinary cultivar.
Remontant varieties to which the majority of modern macrophilous plants belong - hydrangeas, which can boast not only a variety of colors, but also the ability to bloom both on last year's and on young shoots. Such hydrangeas bloom guaranteed: even if something does not succeed or winter protection is not enough, young twigs will still give at least a few inflorescences.
Hydrangea macrophilous is not grown as other types of hydrangeas, including tree and paniculata.If other species have much more similar than excellent, in the requirements for care and selection of conditions, then large-leaved hydrangea requires a special approach to itself.
Large-leaved hydrangeas should be bought only in containers or pots: seedlings with an open root system do not take root well and you should not even experiment in regions with severe winters (injuries received by the root system will not allow the plant to fully adapt and increase the root system sufficient for to withstand the winter even with shelter).
Conditions required for large-leaved hydrangea
Despite the status of shade-tolerant shrubs inherent in all, without exception, hydrangeas, macrophiles are not among those. Even in the southern regions with mild winters this plant can be planted only in partial shade and not in the shade, and in regions with severe winters the plants should be attributed to light-loving.
But picking a place for large-leaved hydrangea, you should not rush to plant it on hot sunny areas, protecting it from midday and dining rays. So that the large-leaved hydrangea does not suffer from the heat and overheating of the roots, the plants are planted in a place where they will be illuminated not by the day, but by the morning or evening sun (but not less than 6 hours a day). Ordinary solar sites will lead to the fact that the bushes in the summer will wilt and wither daily leaves and buds, the latter may not recover even at night.
Choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account the location in relation to trees and shrubs. Despite the fact that in most landscape projects, hydrangeas can be seen under the trees, planting macrophills in such a company is still not the best idea. Hydrangea is moisture-loving and under trees can suffer from a lack of moisture, which the giants will pull out of the ground.
Planting large-leaved hydrangeas
Planting a macrophill requires great care and careful preparation. The main attention should be paid to the preparation of the site and the dredger, which will be filled with a planting pit.
The optimal time for planting in regions with severe winters (including in the middle lane) is spring. Hydrangea is planted as soon as the weather permits, the soil not only thaws, but warms up, and the threat of severe frosts will pass.
For large-leaved hydrangea, the recommended landing distance is about 1 m.
Hydrangea is not filled up with just the soil taken out when digging a hole, but a special ground mixture is prepared in which the roots adapt and germinate more quickly. Peat, humus, and coniferous soil are added to garden soil in equal shares, preparing a loose and super nutritional mixture.
The garden soil removed from the pit, in turn, can be replaced with a mixture in equal shares of turf, leaf soil and sand. But the key point is the determination of soil acidity, which, in turn, will ensure the color of the inflorescences. If you want to grow those same blue, blue or purple hydrangeas (you can get them only from varieties with pink or red color, but not from white-colored hydrangeas), then you need to prepare in advance such a soil that will provide the original high acidity.
For hydrangeas with blue colors, the pH should be between 5.0 and 5.5. For hydrangeas with white, pink and red buds, the allowable value is from 6.0 to 6.2 (in acidic soil, the color of non-white varieties will change to lilac or blue).
In any case, large-leaved hydrangeas should not be planted into the soil with a lime reaction (the maximum permissible pH value is 6.4). If you want to get blue or lilac stains, then aluminum sulphate should be added to the soil. At the same time, if the soil is changed specifically to produce blue hydrangeas, you need to remember that such an additive is only the first step. In the future, save the colors will be possible only with proper watering and fertilizer. In addition to the acidifying additive, a full portion of complex mineral fertilizers is also introduced into the soil.Today, the addition of hydrogel, which allows you to retain moisture, has become fashionable.
The dimensions of the landing pit should correspond to the size of the large-leaved hydrangea root clod: about 35 cm in depth and width for small bushes in small containers and half-meter holes for larger specimens. Preparation of the landing pit will also require additional tweaks. To avoid the risk of water stagnation even on ordinary clay soils, improving water and air permeability, creating an optimal environment, a drainage layer (clay or pebbles, but not rubble) should be laid on the bottom of the landing holes.
Before planting, the upper free layer of the substrate is carefully removed from the container (it is usually quite polluted), and the plant is watered abundantly at least several hours later. Taking out the hydrangea, you need to be very careful and try not to destroy the earth bed. In a tight container or pot around the perimeter of the earthy coma, as a rule, strong young roots curl, as if braiding a substrate. They need to carefully, without hurting the small roots, straighten, straighten.
At the bottom of the pits fill a thin layer of soil and create a small mound. Set on it hydrangea, straightening long roots. Then the seedling is carefully poured with the prepared soil mixture, carefully tamping the soil and gently compacting it around the root ball. When planting, care must be taken to ensure that the level of root penetration does not change.
Planting of large-leaved hydrangea is completed with abundant watering and mulching: the trunk circle is covered with a layer of peat or a mixture of peat and compost 7 to 10 cm high.
Planting hydrangea large-leaved
Humidity and watering requirements
Large-leaved hydrangeas, like any other type of this shrub, did not accidentally receive the name hydrangei. But if some types of hydrangeas are satisfied only with watering during droughts, then the large-leaved beauty needs a more careful approach. For this hydrangea, the soil in the circle should be kept constantly wet.
Since it is possible to achieve uniform humidity only with system irrigation, hydrangea macrophiles are watered regularly (at least once a month), teaching procedures in drought and heat (the optimal strategy is 1 watering per week). For each bush hydrangeas use 20-25 liters of water, deeply soaking the soil under the plant. Hydrangeas are watered at the root, so that both the garden soil and the clod of earth that they have kept on planting soak up.
Watering need shrubs, not only in spring and summer, but in the fall. Lack of moisture during the preparation for the winter can cause severe damage to the plant. But excessive humidity in the fall is very dangerous. If the weather is rainy and there is a lot of precipitation, then large-leaved hydrangea is protected from getting wet, because under cover it should go away with low soil moisture and dried crown.
You can simplify the irrigation process by taking care of mulching: it will allow you to more effectively retain moisture and protect the root system from overheating. For mulching garden hydrangeas, materials that play the role of an acidifying additive — coniferous litter, coniferous soil, or pine bark. Mulch update 2-3 times per season.
Characteristics of water for irrigation of hydrangeas are of great importance. For blue and lilac hydrangeas, watering can be done only with soft or acidified water, the pH value of which does not exceed 5.5. But also for any other hydrangeas, it is preferable to use soft or rain, warm, defended water.
For large-leaved hydrangeas, you can install a drip irrigation system, effectively directing water to the roots and maintaining a stable soil moisture.
Watering a large-leaved hydrangea
Pruning and formation of large-leaved hydrangea
As is the case with most flowering shrubs, garden hydrangeas should not be pruned immediately and start these regular procedures from the very first year.In the first three years, the shrub builds up the root system, and while the process of rooting lasts, you should not expect luxuriant flowering, for its stimulation there is no need to carry out regular pruning procedures. The only thing that will need bushes - sanitary pruning or cleaning, during which dry and damaged shoots are removed.
Only after three years they begin to carry out regular procedures. Hydrangea inflorescences can be removed both in autumn and spring, but it is better to leave them for the winter, as well as the upper leaves, for optimal protection of the buds. Pruning on remontant and ordinary, blooming only on the shoots of the previous year, hydrangeas, is different:
- In ordinary varieties pruning is carried out in early spring, after removing the shelter, combining sanitary pruning with the removal of last year's inflorescences to the first living bud on the branches (if the inflorescences were not removed in the autumn).
- In remontant hydrangeas, pruning is carried out to the second or third bud on all shoots, stimulating the development of several lateral peduncles and increasing the number of inflorescences.
On old bushes of large-leaved hydrangea for rejuvenation, a partial cutting is carried out in the spring: remove 2-3 oldest shoots (but not more than a quarter of all branches), in place of which new replacement branches will gradually grow. Cardinal rejuvenation will not only make you wait for a new bloom for several years, but also increase the risk of losing hydrangea. It is better to rejuvenate the plant gradually, after several years removing the oldest shoots.
Pruning of large-leaved hydrangea
Feed and acidification for hydrophobic macrophilia
When choosing a type of fertilizer for feeding, you should consider the desired color of large-leaved hydrangeas. For blue and lilac hydrangeas, you can only use fertilizers with low phosphorus content, an excess of which even a normal amount can prevent discoloration. For intensive and pure red and pink hydrangeas, on the contrary, choose fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus.
For hydrangeas, it is better to use special fertilizers that are in the product lines of all popular manufacturers of top dressing for garden plants. Fertilizers will also be suitable for other plants that love acidic soil - rhododendrons, heathers, etc. But you can use complex universal fertilizer, and nitrogen, potash and phosphate fertilizers separately, mixing them yourself.
The main advantage of special fertilizers for hydrangeas is the correct ratio not only of the main elements, but of trace elements that fully meet the characteristics of the shrub.
If you mix fertilizers yourself, rather than using ready-made preparations, for blue hydrangeas, mix 25 g of nitrogen fertilizer with 5 g of phosphate and 30 g of potash per 1 feed, and for pink and red - 10 g of nitrogen with 40 g of phosphoric and 10 g of potash .
For large-leaved hydrangeas, three supplements are usually applied:
- Spring, which is introduced at the very beginning of the growth of large-leaved hydrangea and containing all three trace elements (can be replaced with organic dressing or combined with both supplements).
- Two summer feedings (in June for budding and a few weeks after the start of flowering), which can be carried out both with special fertilizers for hydrangeas, and exclusively with potash-phosphate fertilizers, which improve the maturation of the shoots and preparation for winter.
For all hydrangeas, from which they want to achieve blue, blue or purple flowering, in addition to the usual fertilizing, acidification procedures are carried out, watering the plant with special fertilizers. During the entire active season with a frequency of 1 every 7-14 days, the plant is watered with aluminum sulphate, or rather with an aqueous solution of aluminum sulphate in the ratio of 1 tablespoon of the drug to 1 liter of water.
Iron or aluminum alum is also used (8-10 crystals per 2 liters of water per plant).For hydrangeas, who want to get a bright pink or red color, when you change the color and signs of soil overdose it is better to reverse the procedure in time - alkalinization, bringing a handful of ash or dolomite flour into the soil.
Wintering of large-leaved hydrangea
The easiest way to protect low-resistant large-leaved hydrangeas for the winter is to dig and carry them into pots and containers while either in a cool room with a tub or on a window sill in a room with at least 2 months of full shading.
However, the constant digging and planting will not allow the plant to increase the normal root system, and the absence of a full-fledged resting phase will still affect flowering, and the risk of infection with diseases and pests will increase. If you want to keep the hydrangea macrophilia indoors in the winter, it is best to grow it initially as an indoor or garden container plant, the care of which is somewhat different from the general rules.
For successful wintering in the soil, any macrophill hydrangea without exception needs to be protected and sheltered, even the newest varieties with enhanced resistance or remontant varieties that bloom more luxuriantly due to the ability to produce inflorescences on young sprigs. After all, even the best hydrangeas, winter hardiness is limited to only 18 degrees of frost. The shelter of garden hydrangeas is often compared to the shelter of roses, and they really have a lot in common.
The classic method of protection for large-leaved hydrangea for the winter involves the creation of several layers of shelter:
- in mid-September, leaves are removed from the bushes of large-leaved hydrangea to improve lignification, and up to half of the shoots are removed before the first frost (if autumn is rainy, then a frame is additionally erected over the plant to protect against waterlogging)
- in late October or early November (if autumn is cold and the first frost is observed earlier, then in mid-October), hydrangea shrub with peat using about 1 bucket per plant,
- when the temperature drops dramatically, a lapnik or plank is laid on the soil, the shoots of the plant are tipped and pinned
- the bush is covered with a thick layer of nonwoven materials
- above the bushes fall asleep dry leaves
- Leaves are covered with non-wetting protective materials (roofing material or film).
Each stage of the shelter is created in a few days, completely closing the hydrangeas only with the onset of stable frosts: vypryvanie threatens the bush no less than freezing. Holes in the shelter are left to severe frosts, with the possibility of opening them during periods of thaw.
There are other options for shelter of large-leaved hydrangea:
- foliage bushes of large-leaved hydrangea are bent to the ground, covered with leaves or covered with spruce leaves, and covered with boxes or wooden boxes on top,
- after hilling around the bushes, spruce branches are laid out or wooden flooring is set, the shoots are pinned and covered with large-leaved hydrangea bushes with lapnik or dry leaves, covering with nonwoven materials from above, the last layer of shelter is made of peat or sawdust covered with waterproof materials
Shelter removal is carried out gradually, layer by layer with a difference of 2 to 3 days to 1 week. Begin to take shelter in April, and finish only after the threat of spring primorozk disappear completely.
Pest and disease control of large-leaved hydrangea
Large-leaved hydrangeas can hardly be called the most resistant and hardy. This type of hydrangea often suffers:
- from chlorosis, which occurs on alkaline soil and when watered with hard water, most often manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves (you can fight by acidifying the soil),
- from downy mildew, manifested in oily-yellowing spots (better to fight with copper-containing drugs and fungicides),
- from rust (the main method of struggle - spraying of copper sulphate),
- from septoria (fungicides, burgundy and bordeaux),
- from spider mites, which, when drought and low humidity easily bind all shoots (requires the use of insecticides),
- from mice and other rodents who are attracted by a warm winter shelter (it is better to set traps in advance or arrange appropriate means).
In the first year after planting, any large-leaved hydrangea should preferably be poured with a weak solution of a complex action fungicide to protect against rot and disease (a weak solution of potassium permanganate can also be used).
Hydrangea macrophylla (Hydrangea macrophylla)
In autumn, as part of the winterization procedures for large-leaved hydrangeas, it is better to carry out and prophylactic spraying with Bordeaux mixture, which will improve the safety of the branches, reduce the risk of podprevaniya and prevent fungal diseases.
Appearance and features
The homeland of the perennial plant is East Asia: Japan and China. Other names among professionals are hydrangia and macrofile. Hortense broadleaf also called garden.
The height of the shrub forms ranges from 0.4 to 1.5 meters. Stems erect, not fruiting. Wide large leaves, inflorescences (15-25 centimeters in diameter) of various colors - this is the appearance of the hydrangea. Flowering is observed from July to September-October.
Big-leaf beauty gives flowers on the shoots of last year, woody only in spring, this explains the freezing during wintering. Buds for flowers are laid in the fall and often die in the cold. Older tree stalks may not survive the cold, so it is important to carefully cover the thermophilic plant.
It grows on different soils, changing the color of flowers from white, pink to dark red and blue. To change the color, they resort to various tricks: they pour it with special dyes, with alum and vitriol, bury rusty nails under the bush, and make peat.
What are the varieties
In central Russia, mainly winter-hardy types of garden hydrangia are grown. Remarkably, several dozen varieties have taken root.
Of greater interest are the remontant varieties that bloom both on last year’s and fresh shoots. Thanks to the selection of these varieties, large-leaved hydrangea received a new life.
The height of the shrub to 1.5 meters. The colors of this variety are different (depending on the acidity of the soil) - from white to intense lilac. You can grow at home. The variety originates from a broadleaf species Endless Summer. Nikko Blue develops quickly, expanding, releases young shoots every year.
Inflorescences attractive, large, up to 30 centimeters in diameter. Remontrance is that the flowers bloom on the overwintered and flowing stems. Blooming ball appears lightweight, weightless. Have a constant blue color will allow a weak acidity of the soil, and for the intensity of the color should be made under the bush aluminum sulphate in dissolved form.
An erect shrub is covered with oval leaves and large spherical inflorescences (up to 25 centimeters in coverage). Pink flowers with burgundy splashes. Refers to a changeable mind, the variety is able to change color. It blooms in July and August. It requires shelter, very thermophilic variety, does not like alkaline soils.
The bush on the street grows up to 1.8 meters in height. Burgundy flower, framed in white color, has a coverage of 20 centimeters. He loves acidic soil, changes color, under the conditions created specially. A lover of penumbra and southern parts of the garden.
The undersized (up to 1 meter) shrub of this variety has white flowers. Leaves painted interesting: green with white edging. The acidity of the soil should be reduced, does not like liming. Looks beautiful in group compositions.
Red, thick pink flowers. Bush 100-125 centimeters. Decorative increases on sour soil. It blooms in early and mid summer.
Shoots of this variety grow up to one and a half meters high. Bright red flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences. Flowering - July and August.
Expensive variety of large-leaved hydrangea. Inflorescences (25-30 centimeters) consist of small lace flowers in the center, becoming larger at the edge. The repair plant blooms for a long time: first on last year's shoots, then on young ones. The shrub needs support because of its height (1.5 meters) and to support peduncles.
Winter-resistant, continuous flowering variety (on old and new shoots). Terry flowers look like water lilies. The colors are pink, blue, purple, changing with the reaction of the soil environment. The bush is 1 meter high and about the same in coverage. At the beginning of flowering in the center there is a creamy-yellowish color, it gives the effect of two-color.
"Red sensation" - this hydrangea is continuously (twice) blooming. First, on last year's stalk, then on a fresh shoot. Height 70-80 centimeters, the same width. The color is always red, only changing the intensity. In the morning the sun, after lunch - partial shade: ideal conditions for this variety.
Proper planting, soil preparation
The plant is planted singly or in groups. In the second case, the distance between the seedlings is left at least 1 meter. Macrofile prefers acidic, drained soil. It grows well in sunny areas, with shading at the height of the day.
Planting is carried out in early spring so that good roots will appear over the summer, or in the fall. Dig a hole the size of 30 by 30 centimeters (and a depth of 30 cm.), Add humus, sand and peat. Drain the hydrangea and water carefully. Finish work by mulching the tree part with a mixture of peat and fertile soil.
Important! The root collar is not buried, leaving it at ground level. Roots can be trimmed slightly. Shorten when planting and annual shoots (3 buds).
Shelter for the winter
- Before the onset of frost (before November), the center of the bush is covered with peat or spud,
- Bend the branches gently to the ground, not subjecting to pruning, and the leaves need to be removed so as not to rot,
- If you get a break, then under the branches lay a wooden box or log,
- Cover everything with a spanbond or other nonwoven covering material,
- From above pour enough fallen leaves and light grass,
- The “construction” is completed with a film or roofing felt, giving stability so as not to blow away blizzards.
In the spring, the entire shelter is dismantled gradually, completely getting rid of it when the frost passes.
How to multiply
Breeding methods are as follows:
- Divide the bush. In the spring or in the autumn, dig a plant, divide into parts (so that there are buds on each). Long roots can be shortened. Seated in the prepared wells.
- Rooting using bent offsets. At the very beginning of May, bend a flexible branch (several), fixing it in the near recess. Cut off the leaves, scrape the bark and cover with earth. Water during the summer, check. By the fall, the root system will develop the cuttings, and it will be possible to cut the stem from the mother bush. The following spring, the deposition of this new bush.
- Propagated by cuttings. In early summer, several cuttings are cut from annual shoots, 10 centimeters long. Down the growth slice to make a diagonal. The upper leaves on the stem are cut to the middle, the lower ones are removed. Stimulate the workpiece in a special solution and plant in the ground in the greenhouse or pot. A month later, the roots will grow, they need to be transplanted into separate pots, and for the winter right in the pot prikopat in the garden. You can leave at home until spring.