The better to spray lilies from red bugs?

In recent years, all amateur flower growers who grow lilies, there was a serious problem. Its cause and other troubles are connected with the mass distribution of the voracious red bugs of the large familiesLeaf beetles, sort of lilioceris (Lilioceris).

Cute rattle beetles are active and incredibly voracious.

We spoil the life of two common species. This is, above all, ratchetonion, bulbous, or lilynitsa bulbous (L. merdigera).

Harm causes and lily, or lilyratchet, lilybeetle (L. lilii), known as "fireman».

The pest eats the leaves so much that the plant often leaves only a stem. Then there can be no talk of any kind of flowering.

Last summer I began to notice these red bugs on the broad leaves of the imperial grouse and daylily. They are still just eyeing these plants. Do not touch and lilies of the valley.

Description of red bugs eating leaves of lilies

Onion or bulbous cracker (Lilioceris merdigera), refers to the leaf beetles with bright red body and head. The crack has powerful jaws. Her food is not only the leaves, but also the buds, flowers and even the stems of plants of the family Lily.

If you do not destroy the pest, flowering will not be

In nature, beetles feed on lilies of the valley, so they willingly move to areas located near the forest. There their menu is more diverse. The crackling is known to many as "lily beetle».

Lilium, or lily, ratchet (Lilioceris lilii) is a beautiful beetle bug, sometimes called "pike beetle"And"fireman". It has an elongated oval red body and a black head. This beetle also willingly “bites” lilies.

Children catch rattles, clamp them in their palms, or plant them in empty matchboxes to hear the faint creaking that many rattle beetles (their abdominal cavity) emit during times of danger.

Onion or bulbous cracker came to us from Europe at the end of the twentieth century, when foreign planting material began to flow en masse into the country. Important note: these bugs do not bite!

If you do not fight the pest thoroughly, starting in the spring, you will have to deal with the larvae that appear in May-June from the testicles laid on the underside of the leaf. And they will be incredibly hungry. The gluttony of the larvae is so great that they are able not only to perforate the leaves of lilies, but also to destroy them entirely.

A few days from the sheet would have nothing left

Last year, I still had gnawed “hemp” from several lilies that grew behind the fence. It is difficult to notice the larvae because they are covered with nasty grayish-brown mucus. She needs to scare off potential enemies.

It is very unpleasant to touch these slimy lumps.

The next stage of pest development is pupation in the soil (orange pupae). Then a new generation of red bugs appears, who also want to eat. Treshchalki overwinter under fallen leaves and begin reproduction in the spring of next year.

How to deal with lily eaters?

The surest way is mechanicalin which the pest must be collected by hand. It is convenient to immediately shake in a jar of water. Be sure to cover. The fact is that rattles perfectly keep on the surface of the water, quickly moving with their paws. They clump together and deftly climb onto the back of the bugs that are close by. After that, instantly fly out of the jar.

Pests in a water can

If there is no capacity under the hands in which you can put the rattles, then you have to get rid of them on the spot, crushing them with your foot.

If I'm in a hurry and can't take a minute to collect red bugs, then I just dump them on the ground. Sometimes they fly away, more often they instantly fall to the ground (with their paws up) and freeze. So I manage to disarm the pest for at least some time.

Of the broad-spectrum insecticides, I would put in the first place "Sonnet". It acts on the chitinous cover of bugs, destroys their eggs and larvae, inhibits the ability of insects to produce offspring.

The drug is not washed off the plants for a long time with water, therefore it has a long protective effect, maintaining activity for up to 30 days.

By the way, this drug is considered one of the most effective and safe means of dealing even with the Colorado potato beetle.

The modern pyrethroid insectoacaricide with a broad spectrum of activity works well with rattles.Bifenthrin» («Talstar"). This drug is moderately toxic to birds, low toxic to humans. It is not recommended for use during the flowering period.

Not bad act "Aktara», «Actellic», «ConfidorExtra"(Moderately hazardous substance, cannot be used if there are bees) and"INTA-VIR". Spray the plants need to carefully, from all sides, because lily pest resistant.

If lilies are grown for cutting, it is better to use drugs of biological origin. For example, "Fitoderm, CE"And"Bitoksiballin". It is advisable to carry out spraying with an interval of 20 days.

When using any means it is necessary to study the instruction. It must indicate how many days after treatment the plant can be used. In this case, we are interested in cutting or growing nearby food plants.

On lilies with dark leaves of red bugs is usually less

Among the means of struggle is biological options. It seems to me that in those years, when there were many wasps, the number of rattles slightly decreased. But not to breed wasps, many of which are dangerous to people.

There are several species of wasps that need bugs (their larvae) to lay their testicles. For amateur color growers, this method is hardly suitable.

It is used only by individual industrial farms under the close supervision of specialists.

Fighting a red lily bug

Lilies, like all other flowers, get sick and are attacked by pests. Flower growers, who have considerable experience, are confident that the sooner they start helping, the faster and easier the plant will be able to defeat the disease and heal the wounds inflicted by harmful insects.

Who are these voracious malicious leaf beetles of lilies and what you need to do to get rid of them can be found in this article.

"Red invaders"

The sun warms in the spring, the earth is freed from the snow cover, and tender shoots of lilies make their way from under it. Their delicate leaves timidly reach for the light, as if showing gratitude to the spring for the warmth that it gave to all living creatures!

Just starting to admire the beauty of bulbous plants, as their amazing beauty begins to fade. The reason - the invasion of red bugs, which came out of wintering, seeking to quickly gain strength. To do this, they smell their favorite “dishes” in the form of lilies and grouse, overcoming fairly long distances for this.

"Red invaders" are in the family of leaf beetles. The red beetle can be seen, as they say, with the naked eye. Their color resembles that of a fire engine, which is why insects rightly called a fire beetle.

There are two species of beetles in our area: onion red beetles and lily (lilia), which the people also call onion rattle and lilium ratchet.

The name comes from the ability of a given insect to emit specific sounds when a danger is suspected.

The widespread distribution of these pests in Europe and North America is due to the cultivation of lilies and the sale of their bulbs. Red beetles, which have an attractive photo view, are in fact the largest garden pest.

In natural habitats, their eggs and larvae serve as food for the larvae of wasps, but where the “red invaders” have been transported, they are safe in natural conditions.

For this reason, a firefighter is an extremely dangerous creature for plants, especially for lilies.

Enemy # 1 for lilies

Voracious red bugs that blatantly devour leaves on lilies, do not disdain even the petals of flowers, in Europe are found everywhere. In our country, they became known at the very beginning of the nineties of the last century.

This pest most likes to eat lilies, although it does not overlook such plants as lily of the valley and grouse. Already at the very beginning of spring, it can be seen on plantings, where it begins to devour leaves, flowers and bulbs. If you do not immediately get rid of it, then after the appearance of the larvae it will be very difficult to fight the beetle.

Adult individuals of red lily beetles have a characteristic appearance:

  • Pretty big eyes,
  • Breast narrowed enough
  • Wide belly.

Coloring of the body: the area in front of the back and the elytra are scarlet, sometimes bright red; the surface of the latter is shiny with hollows. Long limbs and antennae in black. Rattle larvae resemble caterpillars, the same wingless with a thick long body. Their color is yellow, brown, orange.

For larvae, potential enemies are birds. So they came up with an interesting way to protect envelop the body with their excrement. As a result, the young individual birds are taken for their excrements and do not pay any attention to them.

Onion cracker

The second enemy of lilies is an onion or onion red beetle rattle, resembling a ladybird. He goes to the soil for wintering, appears on the surface at the end of April or at the beginning of May.

The adult beetle of this species is an individual of elongated - oval shape, the size of which is no longer than 7-8 cm in length. The abdomen is black, elytra orange-red.

Legs are red with black dots, black antennae are shorter than half the body length.

The larva of the onion rattle has a dirty white color, with black dots on the sides. The head and legs are black. From the back the larva is covered with unpleasant mucus and excrement.

The onion ratchet damages onions, tobacco, potatoes, hazel grouse, all kinds of lilies and other plants.

Both green beetles and their larvae cause harm to the greenery, devouring the leaves, green seed boxes, stems and bulbs.

This insidious insect in a short time manages to pinch off a tiny piece of many buds, but this already serves as a reason that the blooming flower will be completely spoiled.

Propagation of lily bugs

The beginning of the mating period of red beetles occurs in the middle of spring. One can often observe such a picture: sticking to each other insects sitting on hazel grouse and on lily bushes.

The mating process takes place in the same place where the pests eat, that is, on the leaves, and then on the lily buds. At the same places, the females lay eggs on the underside of the leaves and on the stems of the plant.

The laying of eggs ends approximately in the middle of summer.

One individual can lay 450 orange-colored eggs throughout the season. About three generations of insects then hatch out of them! To the light of the larvae appear after 7-10 days after laying eggs. They are in a hanging position on the underside of the leaves, and it is not easy to notice them.

These parasites are very voracious. They can completely eat the leaf, and so one after another they rudely destroy them; excessive appetite helps the larvae to grow at an accelerated pace. The transformation into pupae occurs on day 16.

On the twentieth day the red lily beetle is ready. At this time, the second stage of damage to flowers begins, after it only bare stems sometimes “flaunt”.

At the beginning of autumn, a new generation buries itself into hibernation in the winter, and in spring everything starts all over again in the same order.

Measures to combat the red bugs natural methods

Protection against rattles will be effective only if all the activities carried out in the complex, one of them does not give any positive results. The pest control is often the responsibility of the garden owners themselves.

The inhabitants of Britain came to the conclusion that if they did not destroy the red bugs in time, they would completely destroy all the lilies and grouse on the island.

It is useless to wait for any help from the birds, because the beetle is not a tasty fireman, which he sends a warning with in his bright red color.

One of the activities is manual pest control. It is not necessary to apply chemistry on small plantations. Qualitatively collect, then destroy the red bugs you need to manually only a few times over the summer. Collecting them is not easy, it will take some skill.

The crackers sitting openly on the grass are perfectly visible, but the insect, at the slightest suspicion of danger, falls backwards on the ground. The black-brown color of the abdomen is at the top and practically becomes one with the ground; it is quite difficult to see beetles in this position.

Of course, the work of collecting insects, especially the larvae, is very unpleasant. The only good thing is that they are not poisonous and are not capable of irritating the skin, as other harmful insects do. But, most importantly, to see your flower garden beautiful and healthy!

Herbal infusions, as a method of dealing with red bugs

The complex for protecting lily plants from red beetles consists of observing crop rotation, as well as regular destruction of weeds with the root, spraying plants in problem areas during the period of feeding the larvae with infusions of herbs. This wormwood bitter and larkspur high. For the preparation of solutions will need the tops and leaves of wormwood, harvested during the flowering period, and the whole plant of larkspur high. Cut it better at the beginning of flowering.

Wormwood solution: fill the bucket with fully chopped fresh sage grass or 800g. dried Pour water at room temperature. Insist night, then simmer for half an hour. Before you use, dilute the solution, taking one part of the broth and one part of water.

Solution for spraying of larkspot: put a kilogram of crushed potion in a bucket, pour cool water, leave to infuse. On the third day, strain. The solution is ready, you can start spraying.

In order for the solution to cling to the leaves, it is recommended to add one of the surface active substances: a soap solution, the cheapest shampoo or a little PVA glue.

In order for the onion red beetle to bypass the lilies and the other green food that pleases it, the spraying of the plants with these preparations should be carried out several times with an interval of one week.

Fighting red bugs using chemicals and biological control methods

It so happens that the manual gathering did not bring any results and the "red invaders" are aggressively going on the offensive, which means that the time has come to use the "heavy artillery", which consists of their chemical preparations. They are used only when a large number of larvae appear not when the lilies are in bloom.

Currently, there is still no drug that would be designed to kill lily pests - red bugs. In cases of invasion of rattles on plants, chemical preparations that are capable of infecting other leaf-eating insects are used to combat them. Especially often this means that are used in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle.

Red bugs have become resistant to chemicals. Before choosing one of them, it is necessary to take this into account. To date, the most effective were such modern preparations: Inta-Vira, Decis, Fufanon, Talstar, Kinmiks and others.

If the flower bed is large and a considerable amount of pests have accumulated, you can spray the tools that are used to combat the Colorado potato beetle. The solution should be prepared according to the attached instructions, otherwise the plant can be burned, and the pests will remain alive at that time.

Still, "chemistry" is not one of the best ways to combat insect pests, including red bugs. On whatever insecticide you can’t stop your choice, no matter how much its advantages are advertised, it is, in fact, a poison that carries great harm to nature.

Parasitoids in the fight against red bugs

The most effective method of negative impact on insects - pests is considered the use of parasitoids. These are not parasites at all, they only use their bodies for their development, destroying them as a result.

In 1996, French scientists laid the foundation for large-scale research, which was then carried out in European countries on lilies in the very season of the red beetle. More than 1000 eggs, about 30,000 larvae and many thousands of adult red beetles were delivered to the laboratory for research.

As a result of hard work, six parasitoids were found, including five wasps and a fly. They restrain the reproduction of the beetle and stand on the barrier of causing damage to them. In Europe, wasps are horsemen, parasitoids, that infect about 100% of the larvae of the pests that, inhabiting the natural environment, feed on the leaves of a wispy lily.

In order to have healthy lily plants in your garden, it is necessary to prepare in advance for protection from small and large pests, including red beetles - firefighters. It is necessary to purchase the necessary preparations and a good sprayer, to prepare everything so that you can start the struggle for the health of your pets in time. It is important not to forget, the beauty of the flowers is in the hands of the owner!

Lily diseases and pests - how to recognize and conquer?

Nutritious bulbs of lilies are very fond of not only rodents, but also smaller pests. In addition, the succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants infect viral and fungal diseases that spoil the appearance of flowers and can even completely destroy them.

To cure a lily, first of all it is necessary to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as to distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.

Gray Rot (Botrytis)

Of all the fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly covers all parts of the flower.

Signs of

The first signs of gray mold are brown round spots, which in the process of development are transformed into brown mucous tissue with gray bloom. Gray rot spreads in rainy and wet weather, as well as during sudden temperature changes. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative effect.

Control measures

It is difficult to stop the disease, because the pathogen overwinters in the bulbs and plant residues.

Therefore, before planting the bulbs, it is necessary to soak in a 0.5-1% solution of the TMTD disinfectant or in a 0.25-0.5% suspension of Fundazole.

When the first signs of the disease appear, the flowers are treated once in 1-1.5 weeks with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide (Fundazol, Chom, Oxy).

Fusarium - rot, affecting the bottom of the lily bulb. A plant that normally develops during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, application of organic fertilizers containing fungal spores.

Signs of

The defeat of the fungus begins with the onion of the bulb. In the place where the scales are attached to it, the lily bulb becomes brown and breaks into pieces. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to the supralucose roots that are not damaged by the fungus. However, in winter the plant is doomed to inevitable death.

Control measures

Disinfect the soil with copper sulphate and formalin for 2-3 weeks before planting bulbs. Soak the bulbs for half an hour soak in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole. Planting once in 1-1.5 weeks spray 0.1% solution of Fundazole or Bavistin. It is also possible to carry out treatments with a 0.2% solution of Topsin-M or Euparen.


A disease in which spots appear on the tips of the leaves, over time, single lesions increase in size, forming larger foci.

Signs of

If the bulbs are too tight, when the process of airing is difficult, as well as when the air humidity is excessive, brown-yellow spots with a blackish border may appear on the leaves of the lily. Depending on the type of fungus Cercospora (the main “culprit” of the spots), they are also colorless, whitish and spread from the edge to the middle of the leaves.

Control measures

If any signs of illness occur, the plants should be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid, Abigak-Peak, Hom or Topaz preparations (according to the instructions). In the spring, biological remedies should be used as prophylaxis at the beginning of the growing season - Fitosporin has a good effect. You can also dilute in 10 liters of water 2 tablets of Alirin and Gamair and spray the lilies once every three weeks.

Leaf spot associated with the activity of a microscopic fungus is clearly visible on the leaves, and if measures are not taken in time, it can affect the stems and bulbs.

Signs of

As with other fungal diseases, first on the leaves, and in the later stages of the disease and on the bulbs, rust-brown spots appear around which an uneven black rim forms over time, as if the stain is “burned out”.

Control measures

Spotting of fungal origin is well treatable with fungicides, for example, Fundazole (10-20 g per 10 l of water), Rovral (1 g of the substance is dissolved in 1 l of water and leaves are sprayed with this 0.1% solution).

Positive effect also gives Topsin-M (10 g per bucket of water). Before treating plants, damaged leaves must be removed so that the infection does not spread.

If it spreads to the stems, it will be much more difficult to cope with the fungus.

Risoctoniosis (sclerocytic rot)

This insidious infection can persist in the ground for up to 10 years. And she is not afraid of even low temperatures.

Signs of

The rot infects the lily bulbs, causing them to mold mold - the mycelium of the fungus develops right inside, between the scales. And the seedlings of infected bulbs are stunted, twisted or do not sprout at all. Without treatment, the plants die.

Control measures

First choice drugs - fungicides Fundazol (10-20 g per 10 l of water), Abiga-Peak (40-50 g per 10 l of water), Xom (30-40 g per 10 l of water). In addition, lilies can be planted in the same place no earlier than in 4-5 years, providing good drainage before planting. Plants that could not be cured need to be dug, and the soil around them must be replaced.

Phithium is a disease of lilies, which causes root rot, as a result of which the development of culture is disturbed: the plant receives less nutrients and moisture. The struck lily loses its decorativeness, it blooms poorly.

Signs of

The tops of the leaves turn yellow, the lily dries. The roots of the bulb are covered with brown spots.

Control measures

Remove affected parts of the plant. Before planting, disinfect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.

Blue mold

Blue mold infects the bulbs during storage.

Signs of

White spots of fungal hyphae with greenish bloom on the bulbs. When digging the bulbs, you can see that they turned yellow, and their roots are dead.

Control measures

Culling diseased bulbs. Compliance with the rules of storage. Airing and disinfection of storage.


Penicillosis affects all parts of lilies and provokes their rotting.

Signs of

The bulbs, flowers, stalks are covered with green bloom. Sick plants are stunted, form weak flower stalks.

Control measures

Follow the rules of storage. At the first signs, pickle the affected bulbs in a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution.

This disease is transmitted through plant debris infected with fungal spores.

Signs of

The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots, which eventually turn yellow. On the surface of the spots appear pads of red spores. As a result, the stems and leaves of lilies dry up.

Control measures

Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Zineb and regularly feed them with potash-phosphate fertilizers. Re-plant lilies on the area where they grew onion affected by rust, not earlier than in 3 years.

Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses

A fairly common disease of lilies, which is tolerated by aphids.

Signs of

The viruses of cucumber and tobacco mosaic appear in the form of light strokes and ring spots on the leaves and flowers. As a result of a lesion, the lily stem deforms, stops growing.

Control measures

Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools. In order to combat the carrier of the disease (aphids), spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Malathion.

Tulips multicolor virus

This virus settles inside the lily cells. Most often tolerated by aphids from tulips.

Signs of

The variegation virus violates the pigmentation of the petals, with the result that flowers appear with strokes, strokes, spots of a different color. The next generation of diseased bulbs are reduced in size, the plants weaken, the variety gradually degenerates.

Control measures

Spray the planting with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools.

Rosette Disease

The occurrence of this disease in lilies provokes a whole range of viruses.

Signs of

For lilies affected by this virus, thickening and yellowing of the stem and lack of flowers are characteristic.

Control measures

Spray the planting with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulation of the bulbs and the aboveground part of the plants.

Spider mite

This pest feeds on the juice of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. Red spider mite eggs can live in soil for up to 5 years.

Signs of

The leaves of lilies curl, the plant itself gradually dries. Upon closer inspection, white eggs and adults of the red spider mite are noticeable on the leaves.

Control measures

When a pest is detected, spray the plants with a soap solution, a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or an acaricide (Apollo, Actofit, etc.).

Pikuk beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)

The bright red pike beetle lays on the leaves of lilies pink-colored larvae, covered with green-brown mucus, which can deprive the plants of almost all the leaves.

Signs of

Larvae visible to the naked eye and adult pests.

Control measures

Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).

Lily fly

The lily fly is started inside an unpainted lily bud. Damage will be noticeable when the fly larva has already done "his work" and pupates in the ground.

Signs of

Eaten pistils and stamens anthers in flowers.

Control measures

Destroy the damaged buds. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditoks, CE, etc.).

Medvedka eats roots, bulbs and stalks of lilies.

Signs of

The presence of a bear on the site can be seen in the holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily dies, and on the surface of the earth around the plant there are numerous passages, most likely, the reason is precisely in the defeat of the bear.

Control measures

Set traps for a bear in the ground. For example, manure pits or slate shelters where an insect will crawl in to warm up and lay eggs. Medvedok collected in one place will be easy to destroy. Late autumn you need to dig deep the earth to destroy the wintering stage of the pest. In the soil make preparations of Grizzly (2 g / sq.m), Medvetoks (3 g / sq.m), Thunder (20-30 g / sq.m).

Khrushch (grub beetle larva)

Like the bear, the grub larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.

Signs of

White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. With the defeat comes the death of the plant.

Control measures

Deeply dig up the soil before planting, choose from it the larvae of the grunt manually. Chemicals are used the same as from the bear.

What you need to know about the diseases and pests of lilies

Greetings to you friends on the site gardeners advice. Experienced gardeners caution beginner lovers of suburban affairs about the features of growing beautiful flowers in the garden - lilies.

Diseases and pests of lilies

They calmly explain that when buying seed, one should not pay attention to bright packages with beautiful photos, and pay attention to the quality of the bulbs.

What are the diseases and pests of lilies

Garden lilies often suffer not only from fungal diseases, but are also exposed to more dangerous viral infections.

If symptoms of dangerous diseases appear, changes in the color of flowers and leaves, changes in the shape of plant parts, their size, stem curvature, inhibition of the plant, reduction of decorative properties, it is necessary to find out the cause of the painful changes in the reference books on gardening and start treating the plants.

Botrytis often appears in lilies - the most severe and dangerous fungal disease of the bulbous family of plants. Gardeners call the disease gray mold or mold.

The infection spreads by planting lilies quickly, especially on cool days in spring, when humidity is high.

The disease begins to appear at the bottom of the stalk of lilies with young leaves. Gray rot spreads to all parts of the plant, it affects even the buds, an unattractive sight, instead of enjoying the flowering, the gardener is upset.

In a cool cool environment, botrytis pathogens can turn the planting of lilies into a pile of decaying unattractive plant residues for several days. Hybrids with white flowers are the most susceptible to a dangerous disease.

Damage to lily bulbs, various diseases

No less dangerous for lilies Fusarium, common among bulbous plants fungal disease. A fungus of the genus Fusarium, which has long remained in the soil, infection most often occurs through a wound in the bulb.

The bottom of the lily bulb is affected by rot. It darkens and gradually collapses, rot can reach the neck of the root.

Yellowing of the leaves can be a symptom of many infections and it is not easy to notice the disease. Nadlukovichnye, remaining healthy roots, support the vital activity of the lily, it develops, but in winter the bulb dies during storage.

Some factors, excessive waterlogging of the soil, its elevated temperature during fertilizer with a little rotten compost and manure with spores of the fungus, accelerate the process of destruction.

Root and bulbs can rot in a lily not only in case of a fusarium lesion; among the root infections, Risoctonia (black scab) occurs, which occurs when the bulbs are infected with one of the types of imperfect basidiomycetes fungi.

May affect bulbs and roots of lithium phthium.Gardeners call this disease "blue mold", the affected plant feels an acute lack of moisture and nutrients, which is reflected in its decorative properties.

The disease occurs most often with non-compliance with storage conditions, with excessive moisture on the bulbs become covered with spots, these are hyphae of the fungus with a bloom of greenish spores.

Dangerous for lily plants. Bacterial rot, manifested in early spring days on leaflets with oval unsightly brownish spots. The infected plant quickly turns yellow, decays and subsequently shoots and flowers fall.

The causes of this type of rot on lily plants are various pathogens, an excess of mineral supplements containing nitrogen and increased soil moisture.

You can notice the disease in the winter storage, you should not miss the moment of appearance of depressed on the scales of bulbs, numerous smells of offensive smelly spots, bulbs for planting massively rotting.

During winter storage, the most important condition is regular inspection of planting materials. The bulbs affected by the disease should be immediately destroyed, it is recommended to change the place for planting liliaceae for several years.

Gardeners recommend thorough disinfection of storage facilities, planting material and soil with special fungicides.

The most common cause of infection of the Root Rot of lily plants can be rotten bulbs, contaminated and overly moist soil in the garden.

When infected, the lily edges turn yellow; it is oppressed and dries out. If you dig up a bulb, it becomes immediately noticeable that it looks good, but only the roots are covered with small brownish spots.

Parts of the plant with manifestations of rot are removed. For the prevention of lily bulbs before planting carefully disinfect.

Rust spreading on lily plants occurs through infected bulbs and plant debris, where fungal spores have been wintered.

On leaflets infected with rust, small, colorless specks appear, on which spore pads of a bright red tint are noticeable with time, spots later turn pale and become just yellow.

Very quickly, the leaves and the stem of the affected plants dry out. Parts of plants infected with rust must be destroyed, and the planting of lily plants should be sprayed with a fungicide selected for the occasion. Plant residues from the flower bed in the autumn must be collected and burned.

Infection of lilies with viral diseases is caused by pathogens of cucumber and tobacco mosaics, they are noticeable to become characteristic strokes and semicircular spots on the leaves.

The pathogen of variegation of the tulip family is dangerous for the lily virus; spots on the petals in the corolla appear on the flowers of the decorative lilies.

Sometimes several different pathogens act on the lily at the same time. The complex effect of viruses explains the disease of the rosette in lily plants, the stem of the lily flattens, quickly turns yellow, the plant does not bloom and eventually dies.

Effectively to cure and return to life lilies with the defeat of viruses is impossible, an experienced gardener always knows about it.

With virus infection, plants must be destroyed, so that the infection does not spread.

Effective prevention of defeat by viruses of plantings of lilay plants consists in isolation from the carrier of a virus, tobacco, cucumbers, tulips, weeds, fight against sucking aphids.

In the conducted studies, the most highly resistant to viruses among lily plants is regarded by scientists from hybrids of the Orleans species, with selective participation of one of the wild genera of the Henry lily.

Lily pests and methods of struggle

Along with the well-known pests of flower cultures, slugs, wireworms, ticks, aphids, flies, there are specific lilies inherent in the family of bulbous pests.

Immediately noticeable on the lily of a characteristic pest is the onion bulb, which is often called the lily beetle. He leads openly and does not think of hiding from the gardener.

A beautiful beetle with bright red elytra settles down quietly on the leaves and devours them. Gardeners emphasize that the bug itself is not so terrible as an insatiable pink bright larva covered with greenish and brown droplets of mucus.

When a rattle appears, the plant remains practically without a single leaflet. The crackle was called after the characteristic sounds made in alarm.

On lily plants, up to 15 species of aphids feel great. Belonging to the sucking, wingless insects inhibit the growth of plants and disperse the viruses dangerous for them.

Aphids spread viruses dangerous mosaic of cucumbers and variegation, a latent virus.

A huge number of bulbous plants are greatly harmed by the colonies of the bulbous root tick. Whole colonies of this pest settle in the bottom of the bulb, suck juices, and it just dies.

During the growing season, the larvae of various flies, bears and often wireworms can harm the onions of lily plants.

In the stems and on the soil around the lily plants, bulbous eggs are laid, the so-called hover flies, this is a very dangerous pest, because its yellowish and grayish larvae penetrate into the bulbs immediately, hatching, feed on their pulp, because of injuries, the bulb rot.

The lily fly feeds on newly formed buds. The larvae prefer it to eat the most delicate tissues of flowers, they will leave the lily buds quickly, the buds of the flowers will not even stain.

The gardener will see the consequences of their feast only when the buds begin to bloom. In the end, actively harming the plant out of reach, the larvae entered the stage of pupation in garden soil.

Onions due to the accumulation of nutrients in the form of polysaccharides are edible and favorite animals. They are eaten by moles and vole mice, squirrels, hares and some herbivorous ungulates.

Ways to control pests and diseases of lilies

Planting lily plants should be prepared in advance for timely protection against any encroachment, for this you need to purchase pesticide preparations for processing, mineral dressing mixtures, sprayers and covering materials.

It is very important to know that the beauty of the garden is a fair result of the painstaking and competent efforts of the gardener, his erudition, worked out over the years of agrotechnical techniques.

Effective and common methods of control are the appearance of the so-called gray rot species (botrytis), bactericidal treatment is carried out by HOM, Oxyhom and the widely known Bordeaux mixture.

Planting material is treated with fusarium in 2% Fundazole 40 min. Infection with Fituium can be prevented; before planting, watered with 0.4% colloidal sulfur soil, pickle with baseol.

On a treschalka or lily beetle, spray when pesticides appear as Decis or Inta-Vir. To prevent the invasion of lilia flies spray during the formation of buds on plants.

Against a bulbous mite, spray Aktellik, pickle Neoron for storage. In order to avoid the appearance of flies and the serious problem of the wireworm, powder the onions with Bazudin before planting.

With the advent of aphids, spray Agravertin, Phytoferm, Inta-Vir. In order not to cause Chlorosis pathogens to acidify the soil with sawdust and peat.

How to identify a pest?

As soon as in spring the first rattle bugs are spotted on flowers, the gardener should immediately start a fight with them. Recognizing this pest is not difficult - the beetle has a bright color and a rather large size (0.6-1.5 cm).

There are about 1,500 species in the Leaf-Eaters family, but only two of them cause harm to lily cultures:

  1. Lilioceris lilii, or lily rattle. The body, head and legs of the parasite are completely black, the elytra is bright red. Size from 6 to 9 mm.
  2. Lilioceris merdigera, or onion (bulbous) rattle. This beetle is slightly larger than the lily rattle, and its head and part of the legs, like the elytra, are colored red with an orange tinge.

People call them Piskuns or firemen and often confuse them. The period of active reproduction of red bugs is from May to the first half of July.

Adults do not cause significant damage to plants (although they feed on the green of lilies). But each female rattle can lay up to 450 orange eggs per season. The masonry looks unpleasant, like small lumps of gray translucent mucus, and are located on the lower part of the leaves, so it is difficult to see and strip them manually.

The rattles got their name for the chirping sounds made during the time of danger.

What harm does a red beetle do?

In a week, the larvae hatch from the eggs. Within 16-24 days they develop on the above-ground part of the plant, then go to the soil and pupate. During the growth period, the larvae are able to completely destroy the leaves, buds, buds, partly and the stems of lilies, as they are very voracious and hatch in large quantities.

Ignoring the pests, the gardener risks losing the entire plant in a fairly short time. First, the lily begins to wither, then lose the buds and leaves. Naturally, will not bloom. In the middle of summer, a new generation of beetles will emerge from the ground and will continue to eat the remains of a flower (fortunately, after this the breeding cycle will repeat only next year). Already in July, only the bare stem of the flower will remain.

The first signs of a lesion are the eaten edges of the leaves and the holes in them; the plant looks sluggish and painful. From this point it is not too late to save the lily for future flowering.

Chemical fight

Effective methods of dealing with the red beetle a lot. With a small number of pests, gardeners quite easily cope with popular methods; in advanced cases, only “heavy artillery” - insecticides - will save. The use of toxic chemicals will help to avoid relapse - timely treatment will completely destroy the parasites along with the offspring.

There are no individual preparations intended to combat red bugs. But both species of rattles are effectively affected by pesticides designed to exterminate leaf-eating insects (for example, the Colorado beetles).

Processing chemicals is much more effective folk methods. Poisons allow you to completely rid the garden of pests after a single treatment.

In the direction of action of insecticides are of several types. Here are the most common ones.

  • Organochlorine. These are highly toxic drugs that destroy most pests. Disadvantages - cause harm to humans and animals, destroy beneficial insects. Such drugs are not recommended for use in personal garden areas.
  • Organophosphate. They selectively affect pests, with a small consumption, the effect appears quickly, but toxicity to warm-blooded animals and humans is high. It is necessary to carefully observe safety precautions and avoid accidental ingress of the solution on the skin, mucous membranes and in the respiratory tract. Common names - “Tagore”, “Aktellik”, “Malathion”, “Karbofos”.
  • Pyrethroids. Relatively safe and fairly effective drugs that destroy the insect's nervous system. They are made on the basis of derivatives of the natural substance pyrethrum. Among the shortcomings, with not too thorough processing, some of the pests can hide and survive, and with regular use they become resistant. The most famous drugs of this group are Bifentrin, Fastak, K-Otrin, FAS.
  • Neonicotinoids. The modern group of insecticides that have a detrimental effect on the nervous system of pests. The drug penetrates into all parts of the plant, so they can not only spray, but also watered at the root. Acts quickly and efficiently, but toxic enough for people and animals. Popular brands are Aktara, Konfidor, Calypso, Mospilan.
  • Bioinsecticides. Preparations based on fungi, bacteria or nematodes do not pose a threat to humans and the environment, they are effective, but, as a rule, are not cheap. Do not cause addiction in pests. Well proven in the fight against the cracker "Nemabakt", "Lepidotsid", "Fitoverim, CE".

To spray the lilies from the red beetles with any of the listed agents, you need to prepare yourself: carefully study the instructions for the selected preparation, observe all the proportions of breeding and the precautions recommended by the manufacturers. Sometimes a single treatment with insecticides does not work for the whole season (the beetles fly beautifully, which means that they can move from a neighboring area at any time).

Treat lilies with insecticides before flowering. Each drug has a waiting time after use - it must be considered when cutting flowers for bouquets. For most products it is about 3 weeks, for biological it is 2-5 days.

Folk remedies

For opponents of chemical processing, there are a number of popular methods of combating the red beetle.

  1. Assemble mechanically. You can catch the beetles themselves (caught conveniently in a container with soapy water) or look for their masonry, and later the larvae (they are small, so it will be easier to remove them from the leaves with pieces of soft paper, cloth). The method is complicated by the fact that, at the sight of danger, beetles immediately fall to the ground up the belly, and it becomes difficult to examine them.
  2. Shake beetles and larvae from the bushes onto cardboard or polyethylene on the ground.
  3. Pour over a stream of water. But both the beetles and a significant part of the larvae will soon climb back on the plant.
  4. Spraying with natural solutions or infusions (dry mustard, ash, laundry soap, wormwood, etc.). This will scare off adult insects from planting, but not destroy them. Some of the larvae that have just hatched from eggs die. Processing is carried out at least once a week.
  5. Pollination with dry ash or mustard.
  6. During the season, cover the ground under the bushes and in between rows with film (this will save at the same time from weeds). The larvae will not be able to dig into the ground for further development.

However, for the season to handle such methods lilies from red beetles will have many times. It is better to combine them, since none of these methods will not bring the desired effect the first time.

Additional control measures

Adults overwinter here, in the garden, buried in loose soil not far from their edible crops. Red bugs attack lilies with the arrival of heat, and in April-May they begin to mate and lay eggs.

To avoid re-invasion of the parasite for next year, gardeners can take action in the fall.

Beetles, firefighters often hide in the winter under a layer of fallen leaves. Therefore, all plant garbage should be removed from the garden, as well as weed grass and roots should be removed. Dispose of waste carefully (for example, burn it). Throughout the summer and autumn, you can continue to manually collect pests.

To keep flowers from the Liliaceae family intact, it is important to prevent the massive spread of the pest. Fortunately, the rattle beetles feed only on lilies, not settling all over the garden and the garden. Having tried several methods of struggle and choosing the most effective among them, the florist will easily learn how to exterminate red bugs, and healthy bright lilies will bloom on the flowerbeds every year.

Lily pests: red beetle

The most dangerous and common enemy of lilies is visible on the plant with the naked eye. Going to the flower, you can easily notice how he sits on the leaves and eats them. It is called the first when lily ailments (pests) are listed. Red lily beetle, it is a bulbous rattle or a beetle beetle. Sometimes people call it “fireman” - the red color is to blame.But he got the nickname “rattle” because if you press it, the insect is capable of making characteristic sounds. Of particular danger are the voracious larvae of this beetle. They have a pink color, and the surface of the body is covered with lumps of mucus of a green-brown shade. Such pests of lilies (red beetle and its larvae) eat the leaves almost completely.

If enemies were discovered, then the question arises - how to treat lilies from pests? As soon as the larvae were found on the leaves, the flowers should be sprayed with insecticide.

Onion leaf beetle

What other pests can attack lilies? In this regard, the red lily beetle passes the baton to the onion leaf beetle. This specimen is known for nibbling leaves at the edges, or creating oval-shaped holes in them. And its larvae leave one “skeleton” from the leaves. The adult beetle is orange in color and has an oval torso. His belly is black and his legs are red. The larvae are covered with mucus, which has a blackish tint. These pests of lilies hibernate in the soil, surface at the end of April and lay eggs. The hatched larvae live for about twenty days, and then pupation occurs. In general, one generation is formed.

The pests of lilies and the fight against them, though similar, have certain differences. In this case, in addition to the treatment of plants with insecticides, it is necessary to regularly destroy weeds and collect beetles by hand.

This pest is very small and forms whole colonies on the leaves. It greatly weakens the plant, and also tolerates a large number of infections of viral origin. In order for a beautiful and healthy lily to grow and flourish on your plot, pests (beetle, aphid and others) must be mercilessly destroyed. In particular, aphids can be defeated with the help of Karbofos, Fitoverma and other insecticides.

Onion mite root

This pest damages a lot of bulbous plants. Its length is not even one millimeter. Mite feeds onion scales, with the result that causes rotting of the bulb. Lily, affected by a tick, stops its growth. Its leaves turn yellow and gradually fade. A weakened plant is exposed to various other diseases and eventually dies. The tick spreads through the soil along with planting material or through a tillage tool.

Before treating lilies from pests, it is necessary to establish which of them struck the plant. When inspecting the bulbs affected by the mite, you can find a lot of passages and cavities in which the brown powder is located. Such bulbs should be removed after scooping. All plant residues are carefully collected and destroyed. If the pest is suspected of having this pest, then all bulbs should be held in the solution of Karbofos for fifteen minutes or poured with chalk. Sticking to the body of mites chalk leads them to death from the desiccation. If the pest was identified during the growing season, then the lilies should be sprayed with a solution of rogora, but it is better to destroy all the diseased specimens. If your site has been infected, then it is impossible to grow bulbous plants on it for four years.

Lily pests. Flies

Much harm to the bulbs is caused by the larvae of flies, which got their name for their ability to freeze in flight, while emitting a characteristic sound. In the bulbs, they eat the moves up and down. From May to June, these lily pests lay their eggs in the soil. Here there are gluttonous larvae that wait winter in the bulbs of plants. As a result of this “settling” in the spring, a weakened lily grows. The leaves of this flower are ugly and have a yellow color.

Fighting them is digging up the soil in the fall. And it should be done quite deeply, wrapping the layer. It is possible to prevent egg laying by mulching the ground with peat or dusting it with "Basudin". Also come to the aid of garlic, which should simply be planted around the perimeter of the garden.

We have already considered many pests of lilies and the fight against them. But in this list it is impossible to bypass the medvedka ordinary. This large insect has a brown color. Medvedka settles nests in the soil at a depth of about 10 cm. To make them better ventilated, this pest destroys all the plants around, gnawing the underground part of the stem. In the area where the bear lives, you can find a huge number of holes in the soil. Especially well seen after the rain.

You can fight this insect in several ways. The first is the destruction of nests. They simply dig up, and the larvae and eggs are thrown upstairs, where they die. To surely destroy all the nests, you need to dig a lot deep enough. Another method is the placement of traps. In the spring on beds are laid out sheets of slate or plywood. Under them, Medvedka climbs to bask. It remains only to check the traps with a certain frequency and exterminate the pest. And one more way - creation of dung holes in the fall. Depths of half a meter filled with manure, in which the bear is arranged for wintering. As soon as the cold comes, the pits are cleaned and the contents are distributed throughout the area. As a result, insects die.

These are small round worms. They live in the soil, and the development of individuals occurs inside the plant. Due to their vital activity, growths and tumors are formed on the leaves and stems. You can suspect the presence of this parasite, seeing cracks in the trunk or deformed flowers. In addition, nematodes are capable of carrying various viral diseases.

The fight against these worms is to disinfect the soil, as well as to exterminate the affected plants.

Potato scoop

Such pests of lilies as a scoop, eat away the stems of plants from the inside. As a result of such damage, the flower breaks or fades. The caterpillar has a reddish-purple color and a bright red line stretching along the back. Eggs of these caterpillars spend all winter time on wild cereals, and in the summer they move to flowers and other cultivated plants. Pupation occurs in the soil near the damaged plants at a depth of five to fifteen centimeters.

To prevent the scoop on the lily, you must thoroughly clean your area of ​​weeds, as well as from all sorts of plant debris. All this must be collected and destroyed.

In some cases, small insects having an elongated shape parasitize on the root system of lilies. They are called thrips. Their oral organs look like a proboscis. These pests pierce the plant's tissues and suck the juice out of it. The plant then weakens greatly, and its appearance loses its attractiveness. But the most dangerous thing is the transfer of various viral diseases by thrips. For the year, these parasites can form from three to eight generations. It all depends on the type of pest, as well as on the temperature and humidity of the environment. The number of generations becomes much less if the ambient temperature drops. This is primarily due to the increase in the duration of the life cycle.

You can fight these insects with any insecticide of a systemic type. This may be, for example, "Karbofos" or "Fitoverm". Begin to process plants with the arrival of spring. Further processing is done every ten or twelve days.

All pests of lilies, photos and descriptions of which are presented in this article, are the most common and frequent in garden plots. But this does not mean that our list is exhausted. In addition to the examined insects, there are also others that infect these plants less frequently and also carry various diseases of viral and non-viral origin. But this is not a reason to despair and refuse such beautiful flowers on your site. The main thing is to study the available information and carry out preventive and curative measures in time. Then your daylily will look wonderful and delight your eyes with bright and healthy colors.

Effective control of red beetles on lilies

Amateur flower growers who grow lilies often encounter pests of the flower — red bugs.

Insects attack a beautiful plant, and soon it dies.

Pest description

Firefighter beetle refers to family of leaf beetles and bears a greater threat to the leaves of the flower. Today there are often two types of pests: an onion rattle and a lily rattle. Insects very much eat the foliage, sometimes you can find a plant with a bare stem.

  • Onion cracker. This pest is a representative of leaf beetles, having a bright red body and head. Thanks to the powerful jaws, the pest can eat not only the leaves - its prey becomes the buds, flowers and stem of the plant. The main purpose of leaf beetles are lilies of the valley and lilies. That is why they have another name: "lily beetle".
  • Lilium ratchet. Another pest of lilies, the so-called red bugs. They have a rather attractive appearance, they have hard wings. In the people of these pests are called "firefighters" because of their colors. They have an oblong red body and a black head.
Often, children catch and place insects in a small box - with a crackle coming from it, which gave the name to the pests.

Harm in the garden

The leaf beetles moved to the dacha plots relatively recently: back in the 90s, they lived exclusively in the forests. Today, the lily beetle is found in the garden quite often, and you need to know how to fight it.

About a week after being laid eggs pink larvae appear. They are located under the sheet, so they are quite difficult to notice right away. The larvae are very voracious and can eat all the leaves on the flower, leaving only the stem. After 2-3 weeks, they move to the ground, where their transformation into orange pupae begins. After 3 weeks, the red pests go hunting. For the winter, they hide in the ground or fallen leaves.

How to deal with the "leaf eaters"

If the red beetle began to appear on the lilies, you need to know how to get rid of it. There are several methods of pest control. Consider them.

The easiest and safest way to kill beetles - mechanical. They can be collected by hand or shaken into a container. The can must be closed with a lid, since the beetles are well kept on the surface of the water and, gathering in one heap, can easily get out of the tank.

If you have a small area, this method will help to cope with the invasion of "firefighters". Collect beetles need several times per season. Despite the fact that insects do not irritate the skin and do not have poison, such an event should be carried out in gloves.

If the mechanical method of fighting with beetles did not bring results, it is necessary to use more severe methods. This is about chemical preparations which are detrimental to insects. However, they are used only when lilies do not bloom.

The drug aimed at the destruction of this type of pest, no. It is advisable to use solutions and tools, the purpose of which is to destroy leaf-eating pests. Often to fight the "firefighters" use the same drugs as for the destruction of the Colorado potato beetle.

Over time, the ratchets become resistant to chemicals. If red bugs began to appear on the lilies, you need to know how to treat the plant. The following drugs will have the best effect: "Inta-Vira", "Talstar", "Detsis".

If the flower garden has large sizes, and you also found a lot of larvae, it is recommended to spray a special solution prepared according to the instructions. Do not deviate from the recommended proportions, as this can lead to plant burns, while the beetles will remain intact.

Biological methods

One of the effective ways to deal with red bugs - the use of parasitoids. These insects settle on rattle bodies and gradually destroy them.

To date, 6 parasitoids have been derived. This number includes 5 wasps and one fly. Thanks to them, reproduction of pests is restrained and damage caused to flowers is reduced. According to the results of the research, thanks to the wasps, 100% of the larvae of beetles, swiftly eating lily leaves, are destroyed.

If you want beautiful and healthy lilies to always grow in the garden, you need to prepare in advance for their protection. In specialized stores it is necessary to purchase the necessary chemicals, sprayers, and always be ready to join the fight with firefighters.

Beetle Piskun (bulbous rattle)

Incredibly beautiful beetle, but very harmful. Females lay pink-colored larvae on the leaves, which devour the leaves clean. Search for them for a long time do not have - they are clearly visible.

Control measures. Treat the plants with Karbofos, Inta-Vir, or Decis according to the instructions.

Onion hoverfly

If in the late spring - early summer, while caring for the lilies, you heard a quiet murmur, look around. See, small black flies hang over the flowerbed? Know your colors are in danger. These are onion hotshots, and they, most likely, have already laid eggs in the soil. Soon the larvae will appear, which with excessive appetite will bite into bulbs and turn their insides into a putrefactive mass.

Control measures. Before planting bulbs powdered "Basudin". In the period of the mass summer of the fly, process the plants with Karbofos or Inta-Vir. And in the fall, it is imperative to dig up the soil and lily the lilies with peat.

Wireworm (larvae of the click beetle)

This typical potato pest eats lily bulbs with pleasure. As a result, the bulbs rot, and the plants die.

Control measures. There are a lot of wireworms on acidic soils, so before planting lilies on such sites, lime or wood ash should be added. Once every 2 weeks it is useful to water the plants with potassium permanganate (3-5 g per 10 l of water). Of the drugs well help "Provotoks", "Medvetoks", "Vallar" and "Pochin".

Watch the video: How to: Identify & Treat Scarlet Lily Bugs A Complete Information Guide (March 2020).